[Bioconversion] Lister Installation - was Fireball Express

Paul Harris paul.harris at adelaide.edu.au
Mon Nov 6 16:55:45 CST 2006


G'day All,

My last post was probably a bit cryptic - I was in a hurry.

Any insulation has to be kept dry, as water is such a good
conductor/convector/absorber of heat.

Happy insulating/waterproofing,
HOOROO

Ken Boak wrote:
> 
> Jeff & list,
> 
> For my hot water pipes I was going to use 3/4"  (22mm)  PEX tube, with a 1"
> thick slide-on insulation.  The insulated pipe was then going to be enclosed
> in a 3" diameter plastic drainpipe - to give it some mechanical strength and
> resistance to being disturbed later by fork or spade.
> 
> The next question is the depth to place the pipes, we have no problem of
> ground freezing here - so I thought that 12" depth might be sufficient.
> 
> Regarding the outer insulation layer, I think that straw would probably rot
> in time, and cause the trench to settle.
> 
> My favourite option would be vermicellite,  but  rockwool or polystyrene
> packing chips (peanuts)  would also be suitable.  It might be possible to
> make a rigid square section duct from slabs of 2" thick polystyrene.
> 
> At the same time I would include a 4" drainpipe to allow power and control
> cables to be pulled through,  as well as a cold water supply for the
> workshop.
> 
> I also have a woodfired boiler, which whilst not suitable for installing in
> the house, would be ideal for the workshop.  The same hot water pipes would
> be used to transfer heat backto the house - in the same manner as Jeff's
> "heat-hut".
> 
> Ken
> 
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-- 
Mr. Paul Harris
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The  University of Adelaide, Roseworthy Campus, AUSTRALIA 5371
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