[Gasification] Very Reasonably Priced Cyclones on Ebay

[Joseph Edes]

Doug Williams, back to you. Thank you for both your advice and your fluidznenz website. To explain a little, what I found on cyclones through the gasification listserv archives were:
   
  http://www.fluidynenz.250x.com/_framed/250x/fluidynenz/layout.jpg and
   
  http://web.ripnet.com/~scater/Cyclone.htm    and
   
  http://www.international.dyson.com/default.asp?sinavtype=menu  and
  http://www.studio1304.com/silca/cyclone/index.htm  and
   
  http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/Order_Page.htm 
   
  Dyson vacuums have the multiple small cyclone principle you suggest, but of course not suitable for hot gas.  Nor are the Clearvue cyclones, which cost more for shipping alone than the metal cyclones I found on ebay.   For example the Clearvue14" cyclone is $395. plus 65$ shipping.   The Silca and Ripnet steel cylones found in the archives are DIY.  So there on ebay are ready made really inexpensive cyclones which I would use basically for wood ash separation.  Thus my enthusiasm.   (Too bad a nice long vertical stove pipe couldn't be used, as they are for better or worse soot/tar "magnets".  Imagine the peril for underpasses and street wires if used with a vehicle!!!!)
   
  Let me explain a bit more.  I am still in awe of Vesa Mikonnen's stainless steel peat burning auto http://www.ekoautoilijat.fi/tekstit/An%20example.htm which is almost a work of art.  I do see a small cyclone.  By the way Mr. Mikonnen will sell his plans for 100 euros plus postage, but requires payment via bank transfer to Finland.
   
  Another profound influence is Mr. Tom Reed's t-lud long stick gasifier collaboration with Saravanakumar, Haridasan,  and Bai.  Though I have never built a fire on top of  fuel, I plan to try it with an old Zip Eagle camp stove I own.  My thought was to make a t-lud wood gas producer using a refractory lined 55 gallon steel drum that would pivot end for end for batch fueling.  Thus making it easier to relocate  the charcoal back on top and making it easier to stoke than what I have observed when people dump fuel in the top of a cylinder.  In other words, like a traditional wood stove is  stoked.  Outlet pipe disconnect would be problematic.
   
  Wet filtration? Dry filtration? Exclusively or in combination, all seem to have been tried.  Cooling?  The readily available Magic Heat chimney extractors from northerntool.com for $149.00 look promising.  As is often suggested in the archives, one should cobble a wood gas unit together and wet their feet so to speak.  So in summary, off the shelf components have their appeal.  By the way here is one more link for off the shelf parts http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10000.
   
  Obviously I am a novice and my experience is exclusively with dry hard wood in various stoves, but these links may be of help to some.