[Greenbuilding] Green Cleaners

Suzanne Carney SuzanneC at charchitects.com
Mon Dec 4 08:22:25 CST 2006


Lawrence,
I don't know what type of flooring you have, but have you tried baking
soda and water?  I use baking soda to get tea stains off china, to clean
the porcelain sinks, and the cork flooring in our laundry room.  I used
to use it on our stainless steel sink when we had one.  I doubt that it
kills bacteria, but it does a great job in cleaning (appearance-wise),
is inexpensive, and has no annoying odor whatsoever.

For laundry we use an enzyme based detergent from Tide.  I use a little
over half of the recommended amount, yet our laundry comes out just as
clean and not reeking of soap smell the way laundry sometimes does.

Just a couple thoughts.

Suzanne A. Carney, ASID

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Today's Topics:

   1. Green mattresses (Doug Crowell)
   2. basement insulation (Paul Newby)
   3. Re: basement insulation (Keith Winston)
   4. Re: Green mattresses (David Bergman)
   5. Re: Soft flooring (David Bergman)
   6. translucent/transparent PV cells? (wmdorsett at sbcglobal.net)
   7. Re: basement insulation (Paul Newby)
   8. Re: Environmentally Friendly Carpet (GSAVP at aol.com)
   9. Solar House passes the Test (Lawrence Lile)
  10. Green Cleaners (Lawrence Lile)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 07:20:40 -0500
From: "Doug Crowell" <dcrowellster at gmail.com>
Subject: [Greenbuilding] Green mattresses
To: greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
Message-ID:
	<9d69db890612030420r20714befw1e54fe3f7eca84ab at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Anyone have a green mattress recommendation.  I've found a good deal on
a
Natures Rest mattress but it doesn't sound that green to me.


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 08:55:58 -0500
From: Paul Newby <pnewby at dsl.ca>
Subject: [Greenbuilding] basement insulation
To: Greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
Message-ID: <4572D76E.60805 at dsl.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

I'm attempting to come to an understanding of the
best option to insulate the inside walls of a
walk-out basement in a cold climate taking into
account moisture control.  I presume you need to:

   1) allow an evaporation path for moisture coming
from the outside (through the walls and footings); and

   2) prevent moisture from entering the wall from
the inside.

I don't see how you can (easily) accomplish both
objectives at once.  An insulation contractor recommends a
layer of spray foam applied directly to the inside
concrete walls.  If the foam has a low vapour permeability,
you accomplish 2) at the expense of 1).  If it has
a high vapour permeability, you get 1) but not 2).
I would think that the best solution would be to
opt for high permeability and ensure a low humidity
environment within the basement living space so that
any moisture accumulation that may occur during
the cold season evaporates out during the warm seasons...?

Thanks in advance for any insights/suggestions.

Paul N.





------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 10:59:00 -0500
From: Keith Winston <keith at earthsunenergy.com>
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] basement insulation
To: Greenbuilder list <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>
Message-ID: <4572F444.5080202 at earthsunenergy.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

First, I'd say making sure you've addressed exterior moisture issues, if

they exist, is the most important step. Then, I'd agree that you want to

hold interior humidity levels down for several reasons. A dehumidifier 
can be a reasonable way to do that. Finally, I'd go with higher 
permeability rather than lower, especially if you're using spray foam: 
the issue of providing an air barrier is addressed by the foam either 
way. If you hold your framing off the wall, you can spray behind/around 
it, thereby reducing bridging & leakage issues.

Good luck!

Keith


Paul Newby wrote:
> I'm attempting to come to an understanding of the
> best option to insulate the inside walls of a
> walk-out basement in a cold climate taking into
> account moisture control.  I presume you need to:
>
>    1) allow an evaporation path for moisture coming
> from the outside (through the walls and footings); and
>
>    2) prevent moisture from entering the wall from
> the inside.
>
> I don't see how you can (easily) accomplish both
> objectives at once.  An insulation contractor recommends a
> layer of spray foam applied directly to the inside
> concrete walls.  If the foam has a low vapour permeability,
> you accomplish 2) at the expense of 1).  If it has
> a high vapour permeability, you get 1) but not 2).
> I would think that the best solution would be to
> opt for high permeability and ensure a low humidity
> environment within the basement living space so that
> any moisture accumulation that may occur during
> the cold season evaporates out during the warm seasons...?
>
> Thanks in advance for any insights/suggestions.
>
> Paul N.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Greenbuilding email list
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http://listserv.repp.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_listserv.repp.or
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> List email: Greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
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>       publisher of Environmental Building News and GreenSpec(r)
> Hosted and archived by REPP / CREST http://www.crest.org
>
>
>
>   

-- 
Keith Winston
Earth Sun Energy Systems
3927 Madison St.
Hyattsville, MD 20781
301-980-6325
keith at earthsunenergy.com
www.EarthSunEnergy.com




------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 12:02:21 -0500
From: David Bergman <bergman at cyberg.com>
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Green mattresses
To: "Doug Crowell"
	<dcrowellster at gmail.com>,greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20061203115610.042de808 at mail.cyberg.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Good timing on the question. We just received ours last weekend after 
extensive research on both eco and health and cost factors. (Many of 
the green and heathy mattresses can get quite expensive, some over 
$2000.) We ended up purchasing from theorganicmattressstore.com. The 
guys there were very helpful in making choices and we ended spending 
much less than most of the other eco/healthy alternatives we checked
out.

It's already helping my wife's muscle problems (as well as our dog's 
itchiness!).

David
DAVID BERGMAN ARCHITECT / FIRE & WATER LIGHTING + FURNITURE
architecture . interiors . ecodesign . lighting . furniture
bergman at cyberg.com    www.cyberg.com
241 Eldridge Street #3R, New York, NY 10002
t 212 475 3106    f 212 677 7291

At 07:20 AM 12/3/2006, Doug Crowell wrote:
>Anyone have a green mattress recommendation.  I've found a good deal on
a
>Natures Rest mattress but it doesn't sound that green to me.
>_______________________________________________
>Greenbuilding email list
>List info: 
>http://listserv.repp.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_listserv.repp.o
rg
>List email: Greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
>Managed by BuildingGreen, Inc. http://www.buildinggreen.com
>       publisher of Environmental Building News and GreenSpec(r)
>Hosted and archived by REPP / CREST http://www.crest.org


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 13:02:28 -0500
From: David Bergman <bergman at cyberg.com>
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Soft flooring
To: <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20061203130156.043f3030 at mail.cyberg.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Rubber floors can have some pretty strong offgassing issues -- so 
there may be either health issues or just "scent" issues -- the 
recycled rubber floor samples I've received have a very definite and 
strong scent to them. Perhaps airing them out for a period would help.

David
DAVID BERGMAN ARCHITECT / FIRE & WATER LIGHTING + FURNITURE
architecture . interiors . ecodesign . lighting . furniture
bergman at cyberg.com    www.cyberg.com
241 Eldridge Street #3R, New York, NY 10002
t 212 475 3106    f 212 677 7291

At 01:07 PM 11/29/2006, Janet L. Hobbs wrote:
>
>Your wrestling mat idea isn't bad and is about as close as I could come
up
>with.  There are some rubber floors used for kitchens and exercise
rooms.  I
>have NO idea how green they are, but they are out there.  They are
softer
>than tile, concrete, wood, but still not as "cushy" as carpet...
>
>-janet
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Greenbuilding email list
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>List email: Greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
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>       publisher of Environmental Building News and GreenSpec(r)
>Hosted and archived by REPP / CREST http://www.crest.org


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 12:47:34 -0600
From: <wmdorsett at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Greenbuilding] translucent/transparent PV cells?
To: "Greenbuilder list" <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>,
	<hseia at topica.com>
Message-ID: <004f01c7170b$7f473280$0802a8c0 at Belkin>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

Some of the large glass manufacturers have been interested in
photovoltaic glass for the sides of large office buildings...having
their cake and eating it too. Getting at least a portion of the view and
generating power to reduce their peak load. Does anyone know of any
translucent/transparent PV cells? Thanks all

Bill Dorsett
Sunwrights PV
Manhattan, KS

------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 15:50:20 -0500
From: Paul Newby <pnewby at dsl.ca>
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] basement insulation
Cc: Greenbuilder list <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>
Message-ID: <4573388C.2030908 at dsl.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Keith Winston wrote:
> First, I'd say making sure you've addressed exterior moisture issues,
> if they exist, is the most important step. Then, I'd agree that you
> want to hold interior humidity levels down for several reasons. A
> dehumidifier can be a reasonable way to do that. Finally, I'd go with
> higher permeability rather than lower, especially if you're using
> spray foam: the issue of providing an air barrier is addressed by the
> foam either way. If you hold your framing off the wall, you can spray
> behind/around it, thereby reducing bridging & leakage issues.

Yes, that's pretty much the plan.  In this particular instance, there
aren't any apparent water problems.  House is at the top of a hill, good
slope and sandy soil, so it seems to be high and dry.  But I was
curious about the general case...

Bob Klahn wrote:
> In addition to Keith's advice, check out the page195 (p.194 for an
> existing basement)of the Joe Lstiburek's Builder's Guide to Cold
> Climates (EEBA on-line bookstore) for a design to allow
> weepage/condensation drainage from the inside surface of the
> foundation wall to the subslab drainage.  It also involves a small
> air gap/drain plane between the foundation wall and the finished
> wall.  

That seems like good insurance.  The woven wire sheets used for
siding underlayer seem like they should be good for this purpose.
I'll look up the reference.

Many thanks for the input, folks...

Paul N.



------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 16:31:47 EST
From: GSAVP at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Environmentally Friendly Carpet
To: blythmcmanus at gmail.com, greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
Message-ID: <cc5.4b2df68.32a49c43 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

Blyth:
 
I do not know wherer you are located, but in the USA, there are many
options 
IN PLACE, for almost 10 years. Options include take back and
remanufacture 
by the mill , recycled content nylon, recycled PET, recovery of  ANYONES
pvc 
backed carpet for remanufacture, just to name a few..
 
Regards,
 
 
Eugene M  Lisa
Verde Interior Products
PO Box 1507
Winter Park, FL  32792
www.verdeproducts.com
407-230-4196 (Cell) - Preferred  Contact
407-673-7474 - Office
407-679-1567 -  Fax


------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 21:18:58 -0600
From: "Lawrence Lile" <LLile at projsolco.com>
Subject: [Greenbuilding] Solar House passes the Test
To: <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>
Message-ID:
	<C3BDACA3AD63A44F8D2BF6788D766B90348EAA at psc-s1.ProjSolCo.local>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

Well the house I am building passed a tough test this weekend.  
 
The house is sheetrocked, insulated, all the windows are in, the shell
is basically there.  There is no heat, no electrical devices anywhere
int he house.  A couple of outlets are live for the Contractor's saws. 
 
Missouri, as you may have heard, had a record snow followed by bitter
cold weather the last week.  I measured 16"of snow in front of my house.
The mercury had dropped to 13F overnight.  
 
After several days of this, I finally dug my way out and went to the new
house.  At 8AM it was 55Finside, and at 1PM it was 65F inside.  The only
heating device in the house was a radio I was listening to, producing
maybe a watt of power.  I was worried about whether I needed to back up
the heating circuit with solar electric and batteries- Ha!  if the power
goes out, I'll have to put on an extra pair of socks, that's about it.
Glass and Mass, folks, it is amazing stuff!  
 
--Lawrence Lile
 
 


------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 07:55:39 -0600
From: "Lawrence Lile" <LLile at projsolco.com>
Subject: [Greenbuilding] Green Cleaners
To: <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>
Message-ID:
	<C3BDACA3AD63A44F8D2BF6788D766B900AE58D at psc-s1.ProjSolCo.local>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

 

 

 

I've become more and more able to notice how irritating commercial soaps
and cleaners are.  Most of them make my eyes water, throat scratch, and
promote asthma.  It's not just me, my whole family has this reaction.

 

The first warning shot was a couch I bought at a garage sale.  I thought
I'd buy a bottle of upholstery cleaner to clean it before bringing it
into my living room.  That stuff had so much weird perfume in it I could
hardly use it.  Then the couch stank so bad I could hardly stand it.
I'd start getting itchy eyes and throat whenever I sat on it.  Several
washings with plain soap and water couldn't take the stuff out.  I
finally threw the couch away.  So much for cleaning.  

 

I discovered the same thing with commercial laundry detergent - so much
perfume I can't stand to sleep in the sheets, and it makes me sick.  Out
went the Grocery store laundry soap, in went the Green products, with no
perfume and really concentrated.  $11 a gallon, but if you do the math,
you use so little that it's the same price as those giant bottles of
mostly water in the grocery store. 

 

Ivory Bar soap is 99 44/100% pure! The other 66/100% is pure allergens!
The bathroom contains Dr. Bronner's, no bar soap in sight.  All One! Bar
Soap None! OK!

 

For years I've cleaned floors with straight ammonia (saved from the old
diazo process blueprint machines) I cut the stuff 20:1.  It's pretty
horrible smelling, and my whole household objects. Strip the hide off a
bear. Maybe not such a good idea. But it was free, and the odor clears
in an hour and nobody feels sick afterwards.  

 

I tried a commercial floor cleaner, and we were treated to a day of
scratchy throats, runny noses and red eyes. What an irritating mess! I
wish I'd left the dirt on the kitchen floor.  My wife, who rarely mops
the floor (that's a MAN'S job in our house!) re-mopped the kitchen with
plain water until the stench cleared.  So much for Ajax floor cleaner.
It definitely is stronger than dirt, I'd rate it about as strong as
Ragweed Pollen, Cat Hair, and Sneezing Powder. 

 

 

How do companies get away with selling this toxic stuff?  Why do we buy
it? You can't even make a decent bicycle without being sued out of
existence <http://www.bicycleman.com/recumbents/bike_e/bike_e.htm> , why
aren't people suing soap mfrs for selling toxic cleaners?  Anybody want
a half a bottle of Ajax floor cleaner cheap? 

 

And a serious question - What do people use to clean their kitchen
floors that preserves indoor air quality and doesn't cost an arm and a
leg?  

 

 

Lawrence Lile, P.E.



------------------------------

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