[Greenbuilding] Green Cleaners

rigaziodesigns rigaziodesigns at gmail.com
Mon Dec 4 08:57:57 CST 2006


Hi there,

We just did our fall cleaning this weekend so this topic is timely for me!
We use baking soda and vinegar for almost everything in the house. (we buy
the huge bags and jugs at Costco. Super cheap stuff) They can be used alone
or together to make a great fizzy paste that lifts all kinds of dirt from in
cracks and corners. Like the shower corners that no brush fits into and the
joint between the faucet and sink that gets all funky. We also mix it in a
plastic bag and tie it to the shower head to clean out all the little holes.
LOVE the stuff. We  use lemon juice in the kitchen for counters and sinks. I
sometimes just cut a lemon in half, rub it on the surface straight, then
rinse with water. If it needs a little abrasive action, I dip the lemon half
in kosher salt and rub away at the spot.

The site below has some nice recipes for cleaners including floors. Haven't
tried the floor one, but I think I will next time. I usually just use a mild
liquid veg soap (hand soap, dish soap, shampoo, whatever I have around. If
it's made with a vegetable soap it's all pretty much the same anyway) add
water and some lemon juice for a nice smell and some acid.
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Prairie/8088/clngrn.html

Happy cleaning!

Lisa


On 12/4/06, Suzanne Carney <SuzanneC at charchitects.com> wrote:
>
> Lawrence,
> I don't know what type of flooring you have, but have you tried baking
> soda and water?  I use baking soda to get tea stains off china, to clean
> the porcelain sinks, and the cork flooring in our laundry room.  I used
> to use it on our stainless steel sink when we had one.  I doubt that it
> kills bacteria, but it does a great job in cleaning (appearance-wise),
> is inexpensive, and has no annoying odor whatsoever.
>
> For laundry we use an enzyme based detergent from Tide.  I use a little
> over half of the recommended amount, yet our laundry comes out just as
> clean and not reeking of soap smell the way laundry sometimes does.
>
> Just a couple thoughts.
>
> Suzanne A. Carney, ASID
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: greenbuilding-bounces at listserv.repp.org
> [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at listserv.repp.org] On Behalf Of
> greenbuilding-request at listserv.repp.org
> Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 8:55 AM
> To: greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> Subject: Greenbuilding Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4
>
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> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Green mattresses (Doug Crowell)
>   2. basement insulation (Paul Newby)
>   3. Re: basement insulation (Keith Winston)
>   4. Re: Green mattresses (David Bergman)
>   5. Re: Soft flooring (David Bergman)
>   6. translucent/transparent PV cells? (wmdorsett at sbcglobal.net)
>   7. Re: basement insulation (Paul Newby)
>   8. Re: Environmentally Friendly Carpet (GSAVP at aol.com)
>   9. Solar House passes the Test (Lawrence Lile)
> 10. Green Cleaners (Lawrence Lile)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 07:20:40 -0500
> From: "Doug Crowell" <dcrowellster at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Greenbuilding] Green mattresses
> To: greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> Message-ID:
>        <9d69db890612030420r20714befw1e54fe3f7eca84ab at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Anyone have a green mattress recommendation.  I've found a good deal on
> a
> Natures Rest mattress but it doesn't sound that green to me.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 08:55:58 -0500
> From: Paul Newby <pnewby at dsl.ca>
> Subject: [Greenbuilding] basement insulation
> To: Greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> Message-ID: <4572D76E.60805 at dsl.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> I'm attempting to come to an understanding of the
> best option to insulate the inside walls of a
> walk-out basement in a cold climate taking into
> account moisture control.  I presume you need to:
>
>   1) allow an evaporation path for moisture coming
> from the outside (through the walls and footings); and
>
>   2) prevent moisture from entering the wall from
> the inside.
>
> I don't see how you can (easily) accomplish both
> objectives at once.  An insulation contractor recommends a
> layer of spray foam applied directly to the inside
> concrete walls.  If the foam has a low vapour permeability,
> you accomplish 2) at the expense of 1).  If it has
> a high vapour permeability, you get 1) but not 2).
> I would think that the best solution would be to
> opt for high permeability and ensure a low humidity
> environment within the basement living space so that
> any moisture accumulation that may occur during
> the cold season evaporates out during the warm seasons...?
>
> Thanks in advance for any insights/suggestions.
>
> Paul N.
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 10:59:00 -0500
> From: Keith Winston <keith at earthsunenergy.com>
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] basement insulation
> To: Greenbuilder list <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>
> Message-ID: <4572F444.5080202 at earthsunenergy.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> First, I'd say making sure you've addressed exterior moisture issues, if
>
> they exist, is the most important step. Then, I'd agree that you want to
>
> hold interior humidity levels down for several reasons. A dehumidifier
> can be a reasonable way to do that. Finally, I'd go with higher
> permeability rather than lower, especially if you're using spray foam:
> the issue of providing an air barrier is addressed by the foam either
> way. If you hold your framing off the wall, you can spray behind/around
> it, thereby reducing bridging & leakage issues.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Keith
>
>
> Paul Newby wrote:
> > I'm attempting to come to an understanding of the
> > best option to insulate the inside walls of a
> > walk-out basement in a cold climate taking into
> > account moisture control.  I presume you need to:
> >
> >    1) allow an evaporation path for moisture coming
> > from the outside (through the walls and footings); and
> >
> >    2) prevent moisture from entering the wall from
> > the inside.
> >
> > I don't see how you can (easily) accomplish both
> > objectives at once.  An insulation contractor recommends a
> > layer of spray foam applied directly to the inside
> > concrete walls.  If the foam has a low vapour permeability,
> > you accomplish 2) at the expense of 1).  If it has
> > a high vapour permeability, you get 1) but not 2).
> > I would think that the best solution would be to
> > opt for high permeability and ensure a low humidity
> > environment within the basement living space so that
> > any moisture accumulation that may occur during
> > the cold season evaporates out during the warm seasons...?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any insights/suggestions.
> >
> > Paul N.
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Greenbuilding email list
> > List info:
> http://listserv.repp.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_listserv.repp.or
> g
> > List email: Greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> > Managed by BuildingGreen, Inc. http://www.buildinggreen.com
> >       publisher of Environmental Building News and GreenSpec(r)
> > Hosted and archived by REPP / CREST http://www.crest.org
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Keith Winston
> Earth Sun Energy Systems
> 3927 Madison St.
> Hyattsville, MD 20781
> 301-980-6325
> keith at earthsunenergy.com
> www.EarthSunEnergy.com
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 12:02:21 -0500
> From: David Bergman <bergman at cyberg.com>
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Green mattresses
> To: "Doug Crowell"
>        <dcrowellster at gmail.com>,greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20061203115610.042de808 at mail.cyberg.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> Good timing on the question. We just received ours last weekend after
> extensive research on both eco and health and cost factors. (Many of
> the green and heathy mattresses can get quite expensive, some over
> $2000.) We ended up purchasing from theorganicmattressstore.com. The
> guys there were very helpful in making choices and we ended spending
> much less than most of the other eco/healthy alternatives we checked
> out.
>
> It's already helping my wife's muscle problems (as well as our dog's
> itchiness!).
>
> David
> DAVID BERGMAN ARCHITECT / FIRE & WATER LIGHTING + FURNITURE
> architecture . interiors . ecodesign . lighting . furniture
> bergman at cyberg.com    www.cyberg.com
> 241 Eldridge Street #3R, New York, NY 10002
> t 212 475 3106    f 212 677 7291
>
> At 07:20 AM 12/3/2006, Doug Crowell wrote:
> >Anyone have a green mattress recommendation.  I've found a good deal on
> a
> >Natures Rest mattress but it doesn't sound that green to me.
> >_______________________________________________
> >Greenbuilding email list
> >List info:
> >http://listserv.repp.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_listserv.repp.o
> rg
> >List email: Greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> >Managed by BuildingGreen, Inc. http://www.buildinggreen.com
> >       publisher of Environmental Building News and GreenSpec(r)
> >Hosted and archived by REPP / CREST http://www.crest.org
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 13:02:28 -0500
> From: David Bergman <bergman at cyberg.com>
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Soft flooring
> To: <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>
> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20061203130156.043f3030 at mail.cyberg.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> Rubber floors can have some pretty strong offgassing issues -- so
> there may be either health issues or just "scent" issues -- the
> recycled rubber floor samples I've received have a very definite and
> strong scent to them. Perhaps airing them out for a period would help.
>
> David
> DAVID BERGMAN ARCHITECT / FIRE & WATER LIGHTING + FURNITURE
> architecture . interiors . ecodesign . lighting . furniture
> bergman at cyberg.com    www.cyberg.com
> 241 Eldridge Street #3R, New York, NY 10002
> t 212 475 3106    f 212 677 7291
>
> At 01:07 PM 11/29/2006, Janet L. Hobbs wrote:
> >
> >Your wrestling mat idea isn't bad and is about as close as I could come
> up
> >with.  There are some rubber floors used for kitchens and exercise
> rooms.  I
> >have NO idea how green they are, but they are out there.  They are
> softer
> >than tile, concrete, wood, but still not as "cushy" as carpet...
> >
> >-janet
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Greenbuilding email list
> >List info:
> >http://listserv.repp.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_listserv.repp.o
> rg
> >List email: Greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> >Managed by BuildingGreen, Inc. http://www.buildinggreen.com
> >       publisher of Environmental Building News and GreenSpec(r)
> >Hosted and archived by REPP / CREST http://www.crest.org
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 12:47:34 -0600
> From: <wmdorsett at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: [Greenbuilding] translucent/transparent PV cells?
> To: "Greenbuilder list" <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>,
>        <hseia at topica.com>
> Message-ID: <004f01c7170b$7f473280$0802a8c0 at Belkin>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Some of the large glass manufacturers have been interested in
> photovoltaic glass for the sides of large office buildings...having
> their cake and eating it too. Getting at least a portion of the view and
> generating power to reduce their peak load. Does anyone know of any
> translucent/transparent PV cells? Thanks all
>
> Bill Dorsett
> Sunwrights PV
> Manhattan, KS
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 15:50:20 -0500
> From: Paul Newby <pnewby at dsl.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] basement insulation
> Cc: Greenbuilder list <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>
> Message-ID: <4573388C.2030908 at dsl.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> Keith Winston wrote:
> > First, I'd say making sure you've addressed exterior moisture issues,
> > if they exist, is the most important step. Then, I'd agree that you
> > want to hold interior humidity levels down for several reasons. A
> > dehumidifier can be a reasonable way to do that. Finally, I'd go with
> > higher permeability rather than lower, especially if you're using
> > spray foam: the issue of providing an air barrier is addressed by the
> > foam either way. If you hold your framing off the wall, you can spray
> > behind/around it, thereby reducing bridging & leakage issues.
>
> Yes, that's pretty much the plan.  In this particular instance, there
> aren't any apparent water problems.  House is at the top of a hill, good
> slope and sandy soil, so it seems to be high and dry.  But I was
> curious about the general case...
>
> Bob Klahn wrote:
> > In addition to Keith's advice, check out the page195 (p.194 for an
> > existing basement)of the Joe Lstiburek's Builder's Guide to Cold
> > Climates (EEBA on-line bookstore) for a design to allow
> > weepage/condensation drainage from the inside surface of the
> > foundation wall to the subslab drainage.  It also involves a small
> > air gap/drain plane between the foundation wall and the finished
> > wall.
>
> That seems like good insurance.  The woven wire sheets used for
> siding underlayer seem like they should be good for this purpose.
> I'll look up the reference.
>
> Many thanks for the input, folks...
>
> Paul N.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 16:31:47 EST
> From: GSAVP at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Environmentally Friendly Carpet
> To: blythmcmanus at gmail.com, greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> Message-ID: <cc5.4b2df68.32a49c43 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Blyth:
>
> I do not know wherer you are located, but in the USA, there are many
> options
> IN PLACE, for almost 10 years. Options include take back and
> remanufacture
> by the mill , recycled content nylon, recycled PET, recovery of  ANYONES
> pvc
> backed carpet for remanufacture, just to name a few..
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Eugene M  Lisa
> Verde Interior Products
> PO Box 1507
> Winter Park, FL  32792
> www.verdeproducts.com
> 407-230-4196 (Cell) - Preferred  Contact
> 407-673-7474 - Office
> 407-679-1567 -  Fax
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 21:18:58 -0600
> From: "Lawrence Lile" <LLile at projsolco.com>
> Subject: [Greenbuilding] Solar House passes the Test
> To: <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>
> Message-ID:
>        <C3BDACA3AD63A44F8D2BF6788D766B90348EAA at psc-s1.ProjSolCo.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Well the house I am building passed a tough test this weekend.
>
> The house is sheetrocked, insulated, all the windows are in, the shell
> is basically there.  There is no heat, no electrical devices anywhere
> int he house.  A couple of outlets are live for the Contractor's saws.
>
> Missouri, as you may have heard, had a record snow followed by bitter
> cold weather the last week.  I measured 16"of snow in front of my house.
> The mercury had dropped to 13F overnight.
>
> After several days of this, I finally dug my way out and went to the new
> house.  At 8AM it was 55Finside, and at 1PM it was 65F inside.  The only
> heating device in the house was a radio I was listening to, producing
> maybe a watt of power.  I was worried about whether I needed to back up
> the heating circuit with solar electric and batteries- Ha!  if the power
> goes out, I'll have to put on an extra pair of socks, that's about it.
> Glass and Mass, folks, it is amazing stuff!
>
> --Lawrence Lile
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 07:55:39 -0600
> From: "Lawrence Lile" <LLile at projsolco.com>
> Subject: [Greenbuilding] Green Cleaners
> To: <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>
> Message-ID:
>        <C3BDACA3AD63A44F8D2BF6788D766B900AE58D at psc-s1.ProjSolCo.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I've become more and more able to notice how irritating commercial soaps
> and cleaners are.  Most of them make my eyes water, throat scratch, and
> promote asthma.  It's not just me, my whole family has this reaction.
>
>
>
> The first warning shot was a couch I bought at a garage sale.  I thought
> I'd buy a bottle of upholstery cleaner to clean it before bringing it
> into my living room.  That stuff had so much weird perfume in it I could
> hardly use it.  Then the couch stank so bad I could hardly stand it.
> I'd start getting itchy eyes and throat whenever I sat on it.  Several
> washings with plain soap and water couldn't take the stuff out.  I
> finally threw the couch away.  So much for cleaning.
>
>
>
> I discovered the same thing with commercial laundry detergent - so much
> perfume I can't stand to sleep in the sheets, and it makes me sick.  Out
> went the Grocery store laundry soap, in went the Green products, with no
> perfume and really concentrated.  $11 a gallon, but if you do the math,
> you use so little that it's the same price as those giant bottles of
> mostly water in the grocery store.
>
>
>
> Ivory Bar soap is 99 44/100% pure! The other 66/100% is pure allergens!
> The bathroom contains Dr. Bronner's, no bar soap in sight.  All One! Bar
> Soap None! OK!
>
>
>
> For years I've cleaned floors with straight ammonia (saved from the old
> diazo process blueprint machines) I cut the stuff 20:1.  It's pretty
> horrible smelling, and my whole household objects. Strip the hide off a
> bear. Maybe not such a good idea. But it was free, and the odor clears
> in an hour and nobody feels sick afterwards.
>
>
>
> I tried a commercial floor cleaner, and we were treated to a day of
> scratchy throats, runny noses and red eyes. What an irritating mess! I
> wish I'd left the dirt on the kitchen floor.  My wife, who rarely mops
> the floor (that's a MAN'S job in our house!) re-mopped the kitchen with
> plain water until the stench cleared.  So much for Ajax floor cleaner.
> It definitely is stronger than dirt, I'd rate it about as strong as
> Ragweed Pollen, Cat Hair, and Sneezing Powder.
>
>
>
>
>
> How do companies get away with selling this toxic stuff?  Why do we buy
> it? You can't even make a decent bicycle without being sued out of
> existence <http://www.bicycleman.com/recumbents/bike_e/bike_e.htm> , why
> aren't people suing soap mfrs for selling toxic cleaners?  Anybody want
> a half a bottle of Ajax floor cleaner cheap?
>
>
>
> And a serious question - What do people use to clean their kitchen
> floors that preserves indoor air quality and doesn't cost an arm and a
> leg?
>
>
>
>
>
> Lawrence Lile, P.E.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
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>      publisher of Environmental Building News and GreenSpec(r)
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>
> End of Greenbuilding Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4
> *******************************************
>
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