[Greenbuilding] [BULK] Composting toilets URINE SEPARATION
YankeePerm at aol.com
YankeePerm at aol.com
Tue Dec 26 11:23:32 CST 2006
The is no problem with urine applied over a large area. If you ferment the
urine first, the nitrogen is in the form of ammonium ions and these cling to
soil particles until taken up. There are also significant amounts of
phosphorous and potassium in urine, and many minerals, especially calcium with plates
out on the sides of containers if you leave the fermentation process long
enough. Shake the jug and you get these white flakes when you pour the contents.
We never have enough urine to maximize the benefit to our gardens and tree
crops. Bamboo, which would take up urine as quickly as we apply it, gets
very little here as we can't spare it.
By the way, someone mentiioned citrus, though I didn't understand the post.
However, citrus is one genus that is difficult to overfertilize as the plants
will take up large amounts of fertlizer when available. Citrus is also
unusual in that it stores nutrients mainly in the leaves, not the cambium or
roots.
Other garden plants that especially benefit from urine are celery (very salt
tolerant), letuce, onions, peppers (Capsicum spp), and of course maize. We
find that fig trees, loquats, and mulberries are heavy feeders with rapid
nutrient uptake, and will sometimes get a shot of golden elixer here if we can
spare it (and the time of year is right.) Plants that require fairly dilute
concentrations 10-20:1 include tomatoes, legumes (kind of a waste if you
inoculated them properly), and some other nightshades. Most greens are responsive,
including especially the brassicas.
The key concept is not to concentrate a resource in one place, but spread out
its application so that it does not overwhelm the capacity of the environment
to absorb it. Also, with tree crops in particular, avoid fertilizing them
close to the time when freezing temperatures or other forms of dormancy are
expected.
When living in winter climates, I found that we could apply urine through
snow onto deep mulch, which serves as a substrate for the organisms that bind and
utilize the fertilizer. (This is basically the same principle that cattail
roots serve in sewage treatment marshes.) The snow melts and diluts the
urine, and it is easy to see where you have applied the urine. The mulch holds
most of the nutrient until spring when bacterial and fungal action promoted
from warmer temperatures promote release of the fertilizer to enable decay of the
mulch. Plants sown into the mulch then benefit as the fertilizer is made
available. I've grown fine crops of maize on 'soil' that was in reality highly
leached coal cinders, but covered with deep mulch treated this way over
winter. I've got photos but they're not scanned.
DH
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