[Greenbuilding] FW: How green is cellulose infill? / thermal bridging?
Jefro
jefro at jefro.net
Tue Jul 11 11:36:57 CDT 2006
All of the products I have compared list 75-80% cellulose by weight, and
20-25% "other stuff" by weight. It was the other stuff I was concerned
about. I very much like the idea of ordering borates only, and we will
do that if we go with cellulose.
I read an article that I can't find now that talked about adhesives.
Might have been a MSDS, but of course it would vary among
manufacturers. Anyway, as I understand it, the adhesive most often used
is simple white glue (PVA: polyvinyl acetate). Considering how much of
that stuff we use around the house, I would say it falls within our
acceptable range of toxicity. It certainly does a good job binding
cellulose together. (fingers, too)
Thanks very much to Keith and George for following up on this
information so carefully.
Keith Winston wrote:
> Are you saying cellulose is 20% (by weight? by volume?) additives? I
> find that really hard to believe. But thanks for the list of possible
> additives, I think I'll do some further poking around when I have a
> moment. I believe wet spray versions have some glue additives that are
> activated by the water, which you don't mention I don't believe. It
> would be interesting to check into this further: just looking at the
> MSDS for a couple different products would be a good first step.
>
> Keith
>
> George J. Nesbitt wrote:
>
>> Cellulose contains approximately. 20% of the following mix of
>> additives; borax. boric acid, ammonium sulfate, aluminum sulfate,
>> lime, ammonium phosphate, mono and diammonium phosphate, aluminum
>> hydrate, aluminum trihydrate, and zinc chloride. (from The Healthy
>> House, John Bower) Exact formula will very with manufacture, product
>> line. Caccoon has three mixes, one of which is borate only for wet
>> spray. Don't spray anything not designed for wet spray, I know a
>> subcontractor that had a 10K sqft house that cost 50K to remediate
>> after the client smelled ammonia! Always ask for borate only, no
>> matter how or were you are going to install, dry pack in wall, loose
>> fill on ceiling, or wet spray in open walls.
>>
>> Borate in enough quantity can abdominal pain, and liver, kidney and
>> lung dysfunction. Personal protection is required, minimize skin
>> contact, safety glasses , and good lung protection.
>>
>> I was talking with a builder friend the other day about using
>> stainless steel nails in ACQ pressure treated rather than double hot
>> dipped galvanized to reduce corrosion. And that it wouldn't be a bad
>> idea to use double hot dipped nails everywhere in a house, because
>> when you remodel old houses you find corrosion on the steel nails.
>> Simpson Strong Tie had a chart showing borate treated wood as more
>> corrosive than ACQ, which as it turns out is more corrosive than CCA,
>> and other older treatments.
>>
>> Corwyn wrote:
>>
>>
>>> On Jul 10, 2006, at 17:24, Alan Abrams wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Hmmmm, anyone have any hard data on this issue of thermal bridging? My
>>>> guess is that what is observed (in infrared photography, etc) is to
>>>> a large
>>>> extent convection along the edge of fiberglass batts. How much heat
>>>> does a
>>>> 2x6 actually conduct, particularly if it's snugly insulated, say, with
>>>> cellulose or sprayed in place polyurethane? What is the moisture
>>>> content of
>>>> wood members, when tested for thermal performance, compared to a
>>>> stud that
>>>> lives in a thoroughly dried out wall cavity? Is wood getting a bad
>>>> rap,
>>>> thermally speaking?
>>>>
>>>>
>>> A 2x6 is about R-6.8 (edgewise) counting just the wood (i.e. not in
>>> a wall at all).
>>>
>>> An article on whole wall thermal performance can be found at:
>>> http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/whole_wall/
>>>
>>> Thank You Kindly,
>>>
>>> Corwyn
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>
>
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