[Greenbuilding] [BULK] Re: Acidic Water

[George J. Nesbitt]

So, we are getting some answers to the question.
I didn't realize that I had a book (The Cottage Water Systems, Max 
Burns) that had information on acidic water in it.
To Summarize;
Acidity will depend on the source of the water, surface, river, lake, or 
well.
Depending on what the water is exposed to both "natural" and "human 
made" it's acidity will very for better or worse.
Soft water is more likely to be, or become acidic.
PH and Hard vs. Soft is indirectly related (Calcium and Magnesium define 
Hard water).
Acidic water increases corrosion and metals leaching out (lead, copper, 
etc..), metallic taste.
PH should be maintained between 6.5 and 8.5.

How do you correct acidic water?
With a neutralizing filter if pH is between 5 and 7 using marble and/or 
limestone chips  (both web links use Calcium Carbonate and Magnesium 
Oxide). This will increase the Hardness of the water.
Below pH of 5 use soda ash injection.

Obviously acidic water is to be avoided. I don't know if plastics hold 
up to it any better. In any case the best thing is to neutralize the water.
Neutralization will increase the hardness, but unless your water has a 
nasty taste, scaling on kettles and pipes, or staining on plumbing 
fixtures (My uncles farm in East Oregon had excessively hard water) you 
don't need to use a water softener. If you do need to soften the water 
don't use sodium (most common) it is not healthy in excess I can't give 
you an alternative at the moment). Hard water is actually healthy for 
you, Calcium and Magnesium are essential minerals, and some of the 
healthiest people in the world live where the water is hard (but not 
excessively).The problem with the minerals is they deposit onto the 
pipes and constrict the flow, especially in expensive tankless water 
heaters, boilers, and solar collectors where the temperatures are 
highest (causing more minerals to deposit), and in the hot water line 
more than in the cold lines. This is why I think tankless water heaters, 
boilers and solar collectors should be closed loop systems. I have heard 
people talk about neighbors/clients that have replaced multiple tankless 
water heaters because of acidic or hard water.

I have read that most of the copper in the San Francisco bay comes from 
the copper piping in homes, and in excess copper is a problem in the 
environment and for people. Metal has it's issues as does plastic with 
toxicity.


Lawrence Lile wrote:

>Jefro wrote: >(profanity from wet amateur plumber) 
>
>How come plumbing stories always end like this? 
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: greenbuilding-bounces at listserv.repp.org
>[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at listserv.repp.org] On Behalf Of Jefro
>Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 10:35 AM
>To: Greenbuilder list
>Subject: [BULK] Re: [Greenbuilding] Acidic Water
>Importance: Low
>
>I live in the redwoods and have some experience with this.
>
>An ozonating filter can cure some minor pH issues (how?  beats me, but
>the pump guy says so).  However, to really resolve them you need what
>others have called a "neutralizing filter".  This is essentially a tank
>that you fill with mineral salts.  The acidic water passes through the
>salts, which neutralize the pH.  Then you have lots of precipitated
>matter in your water, so you have to filter that out unless you like
>cloudy (but balanced pH) water.  You have to refill it with salts every
>so often.
>
>That said, beware also that getting the acidic water from the well to
>the neutralizer involves pipes as well.  If you use copper, it will
>eventually go away.  Ours was made with thick-wall copper pipe about 30
>years ago.  I replaced a run last year between the well and the
>neutralizer.  It was as thin as foil, which I discovered when it formed
>a pinhole leak that I tried to fix with a gasket and clamp.  (clamp -
>crunch - big squirting noises - profanity from wet amateur plumber)
>
>I replaced that section with PVC, not knowing what else to do with it.  
>If we were staying here I'd probably replace it with black iron or even
>galvanized pipe, on the assumption that zinc oxide is non-toxic and iron
>is actually healthy, although those pipes would go away in 30 years as
>well.  Such is the way of nature.
>
>
>
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