[Greenbuilding] [BULK] Re: foam in a can

[Lawrence Lile]

Keep that foam away from any gas vents - foam is combustible and I
suspect it could also outgas at high temperatures.  

 
 
Lawrence Lile, P.E., LEED AP
Senior Electrical Engineer
Project Solutions Engineering
-----Original Message-----
From: greenbuilding-bounces at listserv.repp.org
[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at listserv.repp.org] On Behalf Of George J.
Nesbitt
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:44 PM
To: Reuben Deumling; Greenbuilder list
Subject: [BULK] Re: [Greenbuilding] foam in a can
Importance: Low

    Can foam will work just fine. I installed a new 80 gallon Rheem 
solar storage tank last spring and was disappointed in the lack of 
insulation on the top of the tank. Adding rigid foam to the top would be

a good thing to do unless it is a gas tank with natural draft vent.
    With the frig just be carefully not to insulate over the coils, they

are sometimes in the sides, but probably on the back on an older model.
    I have insulated the underside of a cast iron bathtub with spray
foam.

Reuben Deumling wrote:

>For purposes of filling gaps in the insulation of a new water heater
I'd
>like to use a foam that exhibits a high R-value per inch when cured.
This is
>a rather small volume we're talking about. Can I use pretty much any
product
>or are there pros and cons relevant to this application?
>
>I own a foam gun for the Great Stuff Pro cans, but I'm not sure that
product
>line is well-suited to this purpose.
>
>One of these days I also hope to re-insulate an old refrigerator with
>something similar. The walls on it are all roughly 3" thick, and I
expect
>I'll want to send the foam in with as long a nozzle as I could get.
Perhaps
>this is a different or not even feasible project. Total volume for this
>project would be about 8 cu ft.
>
>All thoughts welcome.
>
>Reuben Deumling
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