[Greenbuilding] Can bugs get in house through wisteria
V.N. Ojha
vnojha at hotmail.com
Sun Nov 12 05:46:05 CST 2006
This is good idea if we can. Only problem I see is bug.
V.N. Ojha
From: greenbuilding-request at listserv.repp.org
Reply-To: greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
To: greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
Subject: Greenbuilding Digest, Vol 5, Issue 21
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 00:15:39 -0600
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Greenbuilding Digest, Vol 5, Issue 20 (Sharon Lee)
2. Re: Fireplace questions (Norbert Senf)
3. Re: Living Walls (Keith Winston)
4. permissible lead in "lead-free" faucets (Reuben Deumling)
5. What kind of glue in Sturd-I-Floor? (Jefro)
6. Re: permissible lead in "lead-free" faucets (Bill Kingsbury)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 13:22:13 -0500
From: Sharon Lee <sharon at halfmoonorganics.com>
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Greenbuilding Digest, Vol 5, Issue 20
To: greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
Message-ID: <7a698ad552ef9ff3628aae63fbd75730 at halfmoonorganics.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
> I have a wisteria that I started from a cutting of my mother's. I live
> in the mountains of Pennsylvania. This thing is gigantic in fact
> eventually I suspect it will take over my entire community. We're a
> bit warmer than New England but have lots of cold and ice with less
> snow covering than in Mew England so I imagine it would grow just
> fine. Just make sure you keep it away from structures as it will get
> under siding, roofing etc.
Sharon Lee
> This is a great idea, which I think I'll implement. I like the
> idea of pumpkin vines for harvesting in October.
>
> Dan, what about wisteria? My grandfather had an absolutely
> enormous wisteria vine, with a base around a foot across (though
> rotted out, eventually). He built an elaborate pipe structure for
> it, and it shaded everything within forty feet. However, this was
> coastal northern California.
>
> Any idea how wisteria would do in northern New England? We've
> got a retaining wall which might benefit from a non-digging vine like
> wisteria, and I'd love to have a reminder of my grandfather growing
> near the house.
>
> -Speireag.
>
> --
> The chill's in the air
> Even so, we are gaining
> on Old Man Winter.
>
> -Speireag.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 10:02:46 -0500
> From: Speireag Alden <Joshua.M.Alden.91 at Alum.Dartmouth.ORG>
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] STSS - was "heat pump advice"
> To: greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> Message-ID: <p062309a6c17b9651f2ab@[192.168.2.3]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" ; format="flowed"
>
> Sgr?obh Nick Pine:
>
>> He's full of practical solar house heating advice, like "never make
>> hot water downhill, because it cavitates in the pipes and sounds
>> like rats in the walls."
>
> Hi, Nick. I'm having trouble parsing that. Should it be "never
> make hot water RUN downhill" or "never make hot water downhill OF
> YOUR POINT OF USE" or what?
>
> -Speireag.
>
> --
> The chill's in the air
> Even so, we are gaining
> on Old Man Winter.
>
> -Speireag.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 11:10:56 -0500
> From: Irina Golfman <irina at inera.com>
> Subject: [Greenbuilding] Whole house water filters
> To: greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> Message-ID: <6.0.1.1.0.20061111110651.02606bd0 at pop.gis.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> Hello,
>
> About a year ago there was a lively discussion about the whole house
> water
> filters, but for some reason I couldn't find it searching through
> google.
> We are on city water and are mainly interested in filtering out
> chlorine
> and it's by-products, fluoride, and sediment the few times a year when
> they
> flush the hydrants. My water is already alkaline and a bit high on
> sodium.
> I was recommended a whole house filter made by SpringHouse. It looks
> great
> but is extremely expensive ($3000). Anyone has any experience with this
> particular filter or suggestions for alternatives to look at?
>
> Thank you very much,
> -------------------------------------------------
> Irina
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 11:19:54 -0500
> From: Irina Golfman <irina at inera.com>
> Subject: [Greenbuilding] SaniFlo toilets
> To: greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> Message-ID: <6.0.1.1.0.20061111111708.02613418 at pop.gis.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> Anyone has any experience with these? These are European made toilets
> that
> have an integrated pump allowing them to be installed below the main
> drain.
>
> I am looking at the SaniPro model which is one of the few that's been
> approved for use in Massachusetts. It looks like a great product that
> would
> remove the need of installing a bulky and ugly pump.
>
> More information is on http://www.saniflo.com for those who might be
> interested.
>
> Thank you very much,
> -------------------------------------------------
> Irina
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 11:35:28 EST
> From: YankeePerm at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Living Walls
> To: greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> Message-ID: <c37.7a6e9b9.328755d0 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
>
> FYI: I'm sending this answer also to my online permaculture class to
> get a
> little more benefit from the work. Class: file for week 11,
> cultivated
> systems.
> In a message dated 11/11/06 10:04:28 AM,
> Joshua.M.Alden.91 at Alum.Dartmouth.ORG
> writes:
>
>
>> ?? Any idea how wisteria would do in northern New England?? We've
>> got a retaining wall which might benefit from a non-digging vine like
>> wisteria, and I'd love to have a reminder of my grandfather growing
>> near the house.
>>
>> -Speireag.
>>
> Unless you have a remarkably mild microclimate, Wisteria spp. are not
> rated
> for areas below (colder than) USDA zone 5. Even with global warming
> this
> would be chancy in Northern New England. However, you can get (very
> small)
> plants cheaply from suppliers such as Gurney's. While this is not a
> horticulture
> list, I guess some advice is relevant here. Be sure to set the
> plants out
> where they will live, due to their fantastic tap root. But protect
> them the
> first few winters. Once the plant goes dormant in the fall, cover
> with very dry
> mulch like dry maple leaves mixed with pine needles (different shapes
> create
> more air pockets.) Then cover that with a tarp and anchor it.
> Wisteria is
> remarkably drought resistant once established, due to the depth of its
> roots.
> As a legume it is a nitrogen fixer. As I mentioned in another post
> recently
> , legume doesn't mean edible. All parts of the plant are toxic.
> Another
> source of plants is Forest Farm on the West Coast. While it may see
> foolish to
> import plants across the continent, I've not found any supplier that
> matches
> the quality of their stock. Do not get bare-root but plants in tubes
> (very
> inexpensive) or pots (not inexpensive). We have had outstanding
> success with
> tubes, which i repot in larger containers to have a much larger root
> ball,
> growing in something closer to the soil where it will eventually grow.
> It would
> be a bit involved to describe how to grow a plant with an extremely
> vigorous
> tap root, such as Wisteria spp. in a pot, and not that relevant to
> green
> building overall.
>
> Since this is experimental in your area, you risk loosing time that
> could
> have established a fully grown woody vine if the Wisteria winter
> kills, a good
> possibility in your climate regardless of measures taken. You can
> get shade
> every year with annuals, however. (See below.)
>
> Otherwise, if you want a woody vine, you can find grape varieties
> rated to
> zone 3, which should be hardy enough. Grapes would also require a
> trellis well
> back from the house. Earle Barnhart, who did one of the first
> permaculture
> demonstrations in the USA, planted grapes to shade a greenhouse with
> too much
> overhead glazing (therefore subject to extreme overheating). This
> was on Cape
> Cod, USDA zone 7 (believe it or not). He pruned his grapes in fall
> or early
> winter instead of late winter/early spring as recommended by vineyard
> experts.
> This is because he needed the winter sun. You could experiment
> with this
> also. Most deciduous plants cast between 40 to 60 percent of the
> shade after
> leaf drop that they cast in full leaf. You could experiment. Most
> vine
> crops need annual pruning for a useful degree of productivity.
>
> Another excellent woody genus that would produce vines and a tasty
> crop is
> the Actinidia. A. arguta is useful to about -20? F, with A.
> polygamma and A.
> kolomikta able to take even colder weather. (They have some effect
> similar to
> catnip, so need some protection, either barrier or marksmanship, if
> your area
> is infested with felines.) The Actinidia are very vigorous vines,
> though this
> varies among species, with A. kolomikta being more restrained than A.
> arguta.
> The Actinidia put on a huge weight of fruit (which may be diminish if
> you fall
> prune--I've no idea about that.) So you need a very strong trellis,
> again at
> least 5 feet from the wall of the building. Actinida have male and
> female
> organs on separate plants. So you need about one male to 8 females
> for proper
> pollination. If you have a wall long enough to accommodate 9 vines,
> you must
> have quite a barn of a building. So you only need one male vine.
> Unfortunately, sometimes these are harder to establish than the
> females. Again the
> Forest Farm tubes or pots offer a high rate of probable success.
>
> You can interplant scarlet runner beans on the same trellis as woody
> vines to
> attract humming birds, provide food before the grapes reach production
> age,
> and fix nitrogen for the grapes. They are annual in your climate.
> You can
> also use morning glories, which grow quickly, cover well, are
> beautiful, but
> require a lot of moisture, do not fix nitrogen, and do not provide
> food. They
> also are excellent hummingbird plants.
>
> Most vines need a good supply of moisture as they put on a lot of
> growth in a
> season. Most vines are not suitable as windbreak species as they
> tend to be
> wind pruned. So if you have a windy south wall, you will need some
> other
> windbreak, a tricky proposition without shading your trellis.
> Because of its
> root system, I'm guessing that Wisteria spp. may be more wind tolerant
> than
> most species. (The problem with wind is usually desiccation.)
>
> I hope that I have been helpful.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> Barking Frogs Permaculture Center
> www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org
>
> Our 11th Annual Permaculture Design Course Online began Nov. 5, 2006.
> Late
> registrations accepted as long as we have room. The protocol for our
> Annual
> Permaculture Design Course Online is at
> http://www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org/Protocol7_05_06.pdf
>
>
> A list by topic of all Yankee Permaculture titles also may be found at
>
> http://www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org/YPCpublicationsbycategory.pdf
>
> ?
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Greenbuilding email list
> List info:
> http://listserv.repp.org/mailman/listinfo/
> greenbuilding_listserv.repp.org
> List email: Greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> Managed by BuildingGreen, Inc. http://www.buildinggreen.com
> publisher of Environmental Building News and GreenSpec(r)
> Hosted and archived by REPP / CREST http://www.crest.org
>
> End of Greenbuilding Digest, Vol 5, Issue 20
> ********************************************
>
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 16:41:51 -0500
From: Norbert Senf <mheat at mha-net.org>
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Fireplace questions
To: greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20061111162918.0309e8e0 at pop.registeredsite.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed
At 09:55 AM 11/11/2006 -0500, Speireag Alden wrote:
>(sni)
>
> I've often felt that one of the unsung virtues of masonry stoves
>is that they burn so hot that you can put just about anything in them
>and there's no creosote build-up, because the secondary products get
>combusted, too.
Yes, and no.
For the cleanest burn, it is best to set up the air supply on the heater for
a
particular fuel. Softwood requires more air than hardwood. Smaller pieces
of wood with more surface area require more air than larger pieces of wood.
Coal requires a grate. Cardboard and paper ash tends to plug things up.
Too much air -- your efficiency drops. Too little air -- you burn rich and
get soot. The limits are fairly broad, but wood fuel can take a really wide
variety of forms.
Creosote itself is really hard to produce in a
masonry heater. I've only seen it once
-- the clients ran out of wood, and went outside and cut green trees and
burned them. My neighbour, on the other hand, has been burning his heater
for 25 years now without ever cleaning the chimney, and the chimney is still
clean.
Norbert
-------------------------------------------
Norbert Senf---------- mheat(at)heatkit.com
Masonry Stove Builders
25 Brouse Rd.
RR 5, Shawville------- www.heatkit.com
Qu?bec J0X 2Y0-------- fax:-----819.647.6082
---------------------- voice:---819.647.5092
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 21:32:44 -0500
From: Keith Winston <keith at earthsunenergy.com>
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Living Walls
To: Greenbuilder list <greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org>
Message-ID: <455687CC.5080707 at earthsunenergy.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Dan, I don't get to spend much attention on plants. But I am really
thankful for your contributions. This was really interesting.
Keith
YankeePerm at aol.com wrote:
> FYI: I'm sending this answer also to my online permaculture class to get
a
> little more benefit from the work. Class: file for week 11, cultivated
> systems.
> In a message dated 11/11/06 10:04:28 AM,
Joshua.M.Alden.91 at Alum.Dartmouth.ORG
> writes:
>
>
>
>> Any idea how wisteria would do in northern New England? We've
>> got a retaining wall which might benefit from a non-digging vine like
>> wisteria, and I'd love to have a reminder of my grandfather growing
>> near the house.
>>
>> -Speireag.
>>
>>
> Unless you have a remarkably mild microclimate, Wisteria spp. are not
rated
> for areas below (colder than) USDA zone 5. Even with global warming
this
> would be chancy in Northern New England. However, you can get (very
small)
> plants cheaply from suppliers such as Gurney's. While this is not a
horticulture
> list, I guess some advice is relevant here. Be sure to set the plants
out
> where they will live, due to their fantastic tap root. But protect them
the
> first few winters. Once the plant goes dormant in the fall, cover with
very dry
> mulch like dry maple leaves mixed with pine needles (different shapes
create
> more air pockets.) Then cover that with a tarp and anchor it.
Wisteria is
> remarkably drought resistant once established, due to the depth of its
roots.
> As a legume it is a nitrogen fixer. As I mentioned in another post
recently
> , legume doesn't mean edible. All parts of the plant are toxic.
Another
> source of plants is Forest Farm on the West Coast. While it may see
foolish to
> import plants across the continent, I've not found any supplier that
matches
> the quality of their stock. Do not get bare-root but plants in tubes
(very
> inexpensive) or pots (not inexpensive). We have had outstanding success
with
> tubes, which i repot in larger containers to have a much larger root
ball,
> growing in something closer to the soil where it will eventually grow.
It would
> be a bit involved to describe how to grow a plant with an extremely
vigorous
> tap root, such as Wisteria spp. in a pot, and not that relevant to green
> building overall.
>
> Since this is experimental in your area, you risk loosing time that could
> have established a fully grown woody vine if the Wisteria winter kills, a
good
> possibility in your climate regardless of measures taken. You can get
shade
> every year with annuals, however. (See below.)
>
> Otherwise, if you want a woody vine, you can find grape varieties rated
to
> zone 3, which should be hardy enough. Grapes would also require a trellis
well
> back from the house. Earle Barnhart, who did one of the first
permaculture
> demonstrations in the USA, planted grapes to shade a greenhouse with too
much
> overhead glazing (therefore subject to extreme overheating). This was
on Cape
> Cod, USDA zone 7 (believe it or not). He pruned his grapes in fall or
early
> winter instead of late winter/early spring as recommended by vineyard
experts.
> This is because he needed the winter sun. You could experiment with
this
> also. Most deciduous plants cast between 40 to 60 percent of the shade
after
> leaf drop that they cast in full leaf. You could experiment. Most
vine
> crops need annual pruning for a useful degree of productivity.
>
> Another excellent woody genus that would produce vines and a tasty crop
is
> the Actinidia. A. arguta is useful to about -20? F, with A. polygamma
and A.
> kolomikta able to take even colder weather. (They have some effect
similar to
> catnip, so need some protection, either barrier or marksmanship, if your
area
> is infested with felines.) The Actinidia are very vigorous vines, though
this
> varies among species, with A. kolomikta being more restrained than A.
arguta.
> The Actinidia put on a huge weight of fruit (which may be diminish if you
fall
> prune--I've no idea about that.) So you need a very strong trellis,
again at
> least 5 feet from the wall of the building. Actinida have male and female
> organs on separate plants. So you need about one male to 8 females for
proper
> pollination. If you have a wall long enough to accommodate 9 vines, you
must
> have quite a barn of a building. So you only need one male vine.
> Unfortunately, sometimes these are harder to establish than the females.
Again the
> Forest Farm tubes or pots offer a high rate of probable success.
>
> You can interplant scarlet runner beans on the same trellis as woody
vines to
> attract humming birds, provide food before the grapes reach production
age,
> and fix nitrogen for the grapes. They are annual in your climate. You
can
> also use morning glories, which grow quickly, cover well, are beautiful,
but
> require a lot of moisture, do not fix nitrogen, and do not provide food.
They
> also are excellent hummingbird plants.
>
> Most vines need a good supply of moisture as they put on a lot of growth
in a
> season. Most vines are not suitable as windbreak species as they tend
to be
> wind pruned. So if you have a windy south wall, you will need some
other
> windbreak, a tricky proposition without shading your trellis. Because
of its
> root system, I'm guessing that Wisteria spp. may be more wind tolerant
than
> most species. (The problem with wind is usually desiccation.)
>
> I hope that I have been helpful.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> Barking Frogs Permaculture Center
> www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org
>
> Our 11th Annual Permaculture Design Course Online began Nov. 5, 2006.
Late
> registrations accepted as long as we have room. The protocol for our
Annual
> Permaculture Design Course Online is at
> http://www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org/Protocol7_05_06.pdf
>
>
> A list by topic of all Yankee Permaculture titles also may be found at
>
> http://www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org/YPCpublicationsbycategory.pdf
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Greenbuilding email list
> List info:
http://listserv.repp.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_listserv.repp.org
> List email: Greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> Managed by BuildingGreen, Inc. http://www.buildinggreen.com
> publisher of Environmental Building News and GreenSpec(r)
> Hosted and archived by REPP / CREST http://www.crest.org
>
>
>
>
>
--
Keith Winston
Earth Sun Energy Systems
3927 Madison St.
Hyattsville, MD 20781
301-980-6325
keith at earthsunenergy.com
www.EarthSunEnergy.com
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 19:06:08 -0800
From: "Reuben Deumling" <9watts at gmail.com>
Subject: [Greenbuilding] permissible lead in "lead-free" faucets
To: "Greenbuilder list" <GREENBUILDING at listserv.repp.org>
Message-ID:
<bf530c410611111906n13b2ea9fjce85c57bab8a081 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Perhaps you all already know this, but I've just learned how much lead (with
the potential to leach) can be in faucets themselves. The brass which is
used inside faucets has lead in it. Less than it used to, but the State of
California seems to think it is still too much. My research suggests that
the amount of lead permissible in faucets sold since 1994 in the US is 8%.
NSF 61/9 stipulates a performance standard to go with this requirement. Just
recently a CA law was passed that will require this level to be reduced to
0.25% starting sometime in the near future. What I have not been able to
learn as yet is what an 8% lead containing faucet can be expected to leach
out under different scenarios (when new; when first used after water has sat
in it overnight, when old; after standing water has had a chance to be
flushed out)? Or for that matter what the range of concentrations is
plausibly for older (pre-1994) faucets?
Also I don't know what other brass fittings, such as are used in PEX
systems, and are not likely to be subject to the faucet 8% rule, might
plausibly leach. This is all quite new to me and I confess to being rather
astonished that so much lead is still around and about in these locations.
If anyone can help me with any of these numbers I'd be most appreciative.
Our household water was just tested and the lead level is 15ppm, which is
right at EPA's threshold. I'm assuming it is probably our old faucet, but
don't know. It could be lead solder in the copper pipes, or it could be
both.
Reuben Deumling
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 21:12:32 -0800
From: Jefro <jefro at jefro.net>
Subject: [Greenbuilding] What kind of glue in Sturd-I-Floor?
To: greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
Message-ID: <4556AD40.3030106 at jefro.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
We used Advantech OSB (made with phenol glue) for our first-floor
subfloor and it is great stuff. However, we need a longer span for the
2nd floor, and the obvious choice is 2-4-1 Sturdi-Floor. However, I
have made a vow to keep urea formaldehyde far from our happy home, so...
Does anyone know whether Sturdi-Floor is made with UF ("interior",
bleah) or PF ("exterior") glue?
Also, can anyone recommend a good "green" sealer? I need to coat this
subfloor as it goes up, as it will definitely get rained on before we
can get the roof on. Contractor recommends Thompson's water sealer, but
the MSDS on that one gives me pause. One option is water-based paint,
but I worry about that offgassing later.
thanks
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 22:14:50 -0800
From: Bill Kingsbury <b.b.bb at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] permissible lead in "lead-free" faucets
To: GREENBUILDING at listserv.repp.org
Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.2.20061111215528.07459700 at verizon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
x-avg-checked=avg-ok-73552AD
Hi Reuben,
I wonder how many list members have an electric current running
through their brass kitchen faucet (between hot and cold), like
I have? (100 milliamps) Has anyone tested for electric current
in their plumbing system, by means of a "clamp around" ammeter...?
Is that electric current dissolving "more" lead and copper, etc.?
Do building codes regulate electric currents in water pipes?
Bill
--- excerpt from: Healthy Housing Reference Manual
Chapter 9: Plumbing
http://www.cdc.gov/nceh/publications/books/housing/cha09.htm
" Older homes that have copper pipe with soldered pipes can
pose a lead poisoning risk, particularly to children. In 1986,
Congress banned lead solder containing greater than 0.2% lead
and restricted the lead content of faucets, pipes, and other
plumbing materials to no more than 8%. The water should be
tested to determine the presence or level of lead in the
water. Until such tests can be conducted, the water should be
run for about 2 minutes in the morning to flush any such
material from the line. "
--- excerpt from:
Assisting Schools and Child Care Facilities in Addressing Lead
in Drinking Water
<http://www.awwa.org/Advocacy/Govtaff/Documents/AssistingSchoolsLead_Final05162005.pdf>
" Are brass fittings, faucets or valves used in your
facility? Brass is composed of two metals, commonly copper
and zinc. Brass fittings used in drinking water taps /
outlets often contain up to 8% lead. This is considered
"lead-free" under the Safe Drinking Water Act.
Contamination may still take place. The amount of lead that
will leach from brass products with less than 8% lead is
dependent upon the corrosiveness of the water and the
processes employed in manufacturing the products. New brass
may leach higher levels of lead until it passivates. "
---
------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Greenbuilding email list
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End of Greenbuilding Digest, Vol 5, Issue 21
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