[Greenbuilding] Green Retrofit Window Options

Tue Nov 28 23:05:08 CST 2006

    Thanks for offering to come to my house and helping me replace the 
13 aluminum replacement windows on my 1923 Craftsman. There useful life 
must have ended 20 years ago. Thank "god" that they left the original 
redwood frames.
    I have replaced 6 aluminum and 1 wood window with Marvin Tilt Packs 
so far, but have decided not to do anymore. The Tilt pack is a good 
product, the main downside is it's not as airtight as a new block frame 
window or a well weatherstripped original wood window.
     The main (energy) benefit from replacing a window is the air 
leakage reduction. Home Energy had a nice article some time ago. The non 
energy benefits may include increased comfort, operation, reduced fading 
and maintenance.
    There are many options for replacement, Tilt Packs (Marvin, Pozi, 
Pella), Marvin double hung inserts (a good step up from a tilt pack), 
Anderson double hung Woodwright inserts (a little cleaner look on the 
outside than the Marvin), fiberglass windows (Blomberg, Marvin Integrity 
all ultrex, single hung only, Marvin Infinity in some parts of the 
country), aluminum with thermal breaks only (hard to find out west), 
vinyl is out of the question.
    Saving the original wood windows is the best thing to do. Repair 
with Smith Restore It Epoxy penetrating sealer and filler. Replace the 
ropes, install V-bronze weatherstripping, reputty the glass, replace 
glass with antique wavy glass, convert sash weights to spring 
tensioners, install dual glazing if sash is 1-3/4" thick with Low E 
(summer shaded south windows) Low E2 (east and west), apply low E film 
on single glazing, etc..
    If you don't have the original sash, go to Urban Ore, they are 
overflowing with old wood sash, cheaper than having new sash built.

    I still have 7 aluminum windows to replace, this is my current plan. 
the front (south) bay was originally 4 casements with a transom above. 
the center 2 windows were turned into one large one. The two side 
windows I am considering installing salvaged double hung wood sash, with 
single pane glass (maybe dual), V-bronze weatherstripping, Low E window 
film, spring tensioner or maybe none at all. The center window I might 
have to make a sash to fit, or will glaze directly into the wood frame, 
I want to maximize my only south glazing. I want to add exterior roll up 
screens for summer bug and heat control. My three dining bay windows I 
plan on using Marvin Integrity All Ultrex (fiberglass) single hung 
windows with Low E2 (west). They only come in standard sizes but will 
fit all three frames that I have. I would really like to have double 
hung sash, and have tried to get the Marvin rep's to use my house to 
test new product lines, no luck yet. In some parts of the country Marvin 
has a line called Infinity that is custom sized and contractor installed 
to complete with Anderson's Renewal line. The last window I might spend 
the extra bucks for a Marvin double hung insert window. I have two 
original wood double hung (I removed one and replaced with a tilt pack) 
windows that with get the full rehabilitation ttreatment. There are two 
fixed wood sashes that will also get window film or double glazing. 
There is one original wood awning window that I plan on removing and 
building a wall.

My friend David Clark is probably the best double hung wood window 
restorer in the country, he lives in Sacramento.

dantonioli at earthlink.net wrote:

>I have several projects coming up on old buildings where double-hung wooden
>windows were replaced in the grand "single-pane, aluminum frame" window
>style of the 1960's. The standard technique for installing aluminum frame
>windows was to take out the sashes, cut the cord to the counter weight, let
>the weight disappear behind the window jam, hammer the trolley flat, install
>new window stops, and then insert the aluminum unit. 
> 
>There are several jam liner retrofit windows on the market that I've used,
>such as the Marvin Tilt-pac.
> 
>A greener option I'm looking into is to use reclaimed and/or certified wood
>to recreate the sashes. I'll fish out the counter-weight, replace the
>trolley, and tie the new sash to the weight with new rope. It's more time
>consuming, and a bit more expensive, but it restores the original look and
>is greener because it doesn't use pvc liner and Marvin's choice of certified
>wood. 
> 
>But it also means that in order to fit the sashes into their original jam
>you have to use single-pane and/or laminated glass. I've been researching
>the latter and am trying to get information on STC and U-value ratings. 
> 
>Does anyone know if laminated glass has "insulation" value and/or an R or U
>value attached to it?
> 
>Also, lami is often used for sound abatement, which is useful for me because
>I live next to a freeway. But would a single pane of lami be as sound-proof
>as a double pane unit? Most of the ratings I've seen are for double-pane
>windows where the outside pane is lami. These tend to be very expensive
>windows, but are often used for sound abatement next to airports and other
>high noise areas. 
> 
>Replacing the aluminum windows with wood sash lami is a big improvement for
>both sound and thermal, but I was hoping to get a bit more specific in terms
>of how much better. 
> 
> 
>Dan Antonioli
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