[Greenbuilding] dry firewood

[YankeePerm at aol.com]

In a message dated 11/30/06 10:18:09 PM, collinsl at bigpond.net.au writes:


> 
> Last winter I accidentally burned some wood that I had felled the
> previous summer.  It looked dry but it didn't put out much
> heat.  Then I cut up some logs which had been lying around for
> decades.  The difference was amazing.  Instead of having to leave
> open the firebox door I had to close down the air intake to a third
> of normal.  I've been burning wood off and on for fifty years and
> I've never experienced such a difference between green and dry wood
> before.  In both cases the wood species was 'Eucalyptus Radiata : 
> Peppermint'
> 
> And properly seasoned wood that is wet from recent rain is still dry
> wood in this context.
> 
> Lance
> (in Aus)
> 
> 
Yes, the research reports I've read (maybe 20 years ago) indicate that having 
seasoned wood is essential, and is more important to burn efficiency and 
minimizing creosote buildup than whether or not the wood is damp.   Cured wood 
will also dry rather quickly if brought under cover.

Some tree species produce wood that burns better 'green' than the average.  
In North America, ash carries very little moisture into the winter and is 
suitable as an emergency fuel if cut in winter for immediate use.   Cherry, maple, 
birch, etc., definitely need to be cured or else they produce a lot of 
creosote, too much charcoal, and low heat output.   I've no experience burning pecan, 
but that species drops leaves very early in the fall and leafs out late in 
the spring, so I'd consider trying it, and to a lesser extent the other 
hickories, as winter-harvested firewood.

For outdoor cooking, mixing in some green wood produces more coals that can 
provide a slow cooking heat.   Of course, they do the same indoors but the 
creosote buildup in your chimney isn't worth the convenience.

Dan Hemenway




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