[Greenbuilding] (sources on) graywater basics?
YankeePerm at aol.com
YankeePerm at aol.com
Sun Apr 8 10:18:15 CDT 2007
Bob Kourik wrote a pretty good little greywater handbook some years back. You
can probably get a copy from amazon. Art Ludwig of Oasis publishing has put
out a very good, very detailed book recently. He has a web site and I don't
have it at hand but it should be an easy search.
Years ago I set up a greywater system for my washing machine that was simply
an inverted 55 gal drum. I cut the bottom from the drum (which was now the
top) and placed the drum on two cement blocks. This gave enough clearance to
attache a nipple, elbow and tap for garden hose. (These drums usually have a
3/4" threaded hole with plug in the top. Which is why I used the top on the
bottom.
I saw no purpose for a wasteful filter, and still do not, as the lumpy stuff
was better for my garden than the water alone. We had two babies in diapers
and ran the wash water right to the garden, moving the end of the hose. I'd
especially irrigate moisture loving plants with great salt-tolerance in this
way. At the time, we were still able to get high phosphate detergent, which
we used for extra garden fertility. I've used variants of this system off and
on over the decades. In rich soil, you are unlikely to have a problem with
any organic material in the water. Poor soil is not geared up to digest the
POTENTIAL pathogens, and you should use a subterranean system in poor soil.
Here in Florida, we have a fixed but modifiable system for our outdoor washing
machine, which runs discharges into 2-inch plastic pipe (whatever kinds I had
around as scrap.) These I laid on the ground and drilled 1/2 inch holes in
the side next to every point (ornamental shrub in this case) that I wanted
irrigated. I also drilled one hole in the top near a shrub to avoid any chance
of trapped air, though I doubt it would have been a problem. We have a
set-tub rarely used that drains into the same system. The pipes are lain on the
surface of the soil and covered with mulch and ground cover vines. Holes on
the bottom would soon be plugged with roots. The entire system uses no joint
cement so we can take it apart and reconfigure if we wish. One can also
regulate more water to some points than others by the relative position of the
exhaust ports (holes in the pipe.)
Ludwig has a completely underground system that is excellent for fixed
irrigation of somewhat salt-tolerant vegetation, e.g., loquat or fig. Bamboo is also
used to soak up grey water, but as there are some 1500 species, some with
many varieties, there is probably a range of salt tolerance. Bambusa multiplex
is reported to withstand short term immersion in brackish water in coastal
areas, so it is likely one good candidate.
That should be more than enough info for you to work out your own system
based on your needs. 20 gpd is enough to irrigate several food trees, for
example. The drier your climate, the more you need be concerned about selection of
the right degree of salt-tolerance in vegetation. Alas, I've never seen a
comprehensive list of salt-tolerance of woody plants. It is greatly needed
data.
For Mother Earth
Dan Hemenway
In a message dated 4/5/07 5:46:25 PM, 9watts at gmail.com writes:
> I'm interested in ideas for turning ~20 gallons of domestic graywater/day
> into irrigation quality water for a backyard garden (April-September only
> for the time being). I don't need much storage. I'm envisioning directing my
> greywater into a barrel full of sand which issues into a "rain barrel." I
> think I've got just enough height for this to work.
>
> Things to avoid, keep in mind? Primers, websites?
>
> Thanks very much.
>
> Reuben Deumling
>
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