[Greenbuilding] Reusing wood in Katrina Formosan quarantine
Brad Guy
guy_brad at yahoo.com
Thu Feb 1 09:23:21 CST 2007
We are working on deconstruction and reuse wood
projects in NOLA and adjacent counties in Mississippi.
The State of LA has placed a quarantine on reuse of
any wood from the 9 parishes around and including
Orleans unless treated for Formosan termites.
I am looking for any thoughts/suggestions on "best"
preservatives that is also least toxic - which we know
can be an unfortunate oxymoron - the reuses would be
exterior or interior and non-ground contact.
A list of products I am aware of:
Tim-bor
ACQ
Copper Azole
Bora-care
Advance Guard
Any others?
Any recommendations on any of these?
Thanks for your help,
Brad
--- Lawrence Lile <LLile at projsolco.com> wrote:
>
> >Couldn't you do it right over the
> shingles (in case it rained during the construction
> and to save time)?
>
> You can only put so much weight over the roof. With
> asphalt shingles, I
> think the rule is 3 roofs is all you get. When I
> reroofed my house
> there were four layers so some people cheat on this,
> but your building
> inspector won't be pleased with this tactic.
>
>
> > What would the cost be to get someone to do
> this--compared to
> removing and replacing the shingles.
>
> Removing the old shingles takes a lot of elbow
> grease but is
> surprisingly cheap. It's a day's work for a crew of
> five on most average
> houses. The right way to do it is to remove the old
> shingles, you could
> get away with leaving them on if there is only a
> layer. I wouldn't add
> foam and purlins and so forth over an old roof, this
> is just shoddy
> practice. Yeah, if it looks like rain you need
> tarps, no way around it.
>
>
>
> >Unfortunately, it's not a simple
> roof. I imagine the price of the material has gone
> up a lot. Hasn't
> steel gone up, like 700% in the last ten years?
>
> When I did my roof last summer, "barn metal" style
> roof with the screws
> was a little more expensive than asphalt,
> architectural standing seam
> (no screws penetrating the face, lasts a lifetime)
> was two or two and a
> half times as expensive as asphalt. A pro can put
> the metal onto any
> shape roof. I went with the standing seam, so I
> won't be up there when
> I'm past 70 trying to patch up a 20 year old leaking
> roof.
>
>
> > Also, i'm in minnesota, not arizona, so another
> option could be to
> insulate (foam sheeting) on top of the existing roof
> and put the
> purlins and steel on top of that. My attic is
> finished, so I can't
> insulate it any better without demo-ing the ceiling.
>
>
> Minnesota, eh? Yes adding foam sheathing on top of
> your roof, after you
> tear off the shingles, and after you replace any
> rotten plywood that is
> under there, is an option, but it is unconventional
> and you'll be told
> by a contractor "It can't be done". Keep looking
> until you find someone
> creative. Unless you add purlins you won't be able
> to do more than 1.5"
> of foam in this way, the screws get too long to be
> practical. I'd think
> the purlins would be stronger and more wind
> resistant.
>
> Make sure you include snow guards like these
>
>
http://www.alpinesnowguards.com/standing-seam-snowguards.html
>
> it is really scary when a big chunk of ice comes
> skiing off the roof.
> You'll need snow guards wherever people can walk, to
> protect mechanical
> equipment, overhead wires and landscaping. Don't
> use the glue-on type
> that can pop off, use the kind that clamps a tube
> like a little fence.
>
>
> --Lawrence Lile
>
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Brad Guy, Director of Operations
Hamer Center for Community Design
Penn State University
(814)-865-5733
www.hamercenter.psu.edu
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