[Greenbuilding] Roofs
Clarke Olsen
colsen at taconic.net
Thu Feb 1 15:58:09 CST 2007
Putting shingles over existing is sub-optimal: the old ones should
come off.
That reminds us of another reason to like metal: it's much easier
to recycle
than tons of asphalt.
Clarke Olsen
On Feb 1, 2007, at 9:52 AM, Lawrence Lile wrote:
>
>> Couldn't you do it right over the
> shingles (in case it rained during the construction and to save time)?
>
> You can only put so much weight over the roof. With asphalt shingles,
> I
> think the rule is 3 roofs is all you get. When I reroofed my house
> there were four layers so some people cheat on this, but your building
> inspector won't be pleased with this tactic.
>
>
>> What would the cost be to get someone to do this--compared to
> removing and replacing the shingles.
>
> Removing the old shingles takes a lot of elbow grease but is
> surprisingly cheap. It's a day's work for a crew of five on most
> average
> houses. The right way to do it is to remove the old shingles, you could
> get away with leaving them on if there is only a layer. I wouldn't add
> foam and purlins and so forth over an old roof, this is just shoddy
> practice. Yeah, if it looks like rain you need tarps, no way around
> it.
>
>
>
>> Unfortunately, it's not a simple
> roof. I imagine the price of the material has gone up a lot. Hasn't
> steel gone up, like 700% in the last ten years?
>
> When I did my roof last summer, "barn metal" style roof with the screws
> was a little more expensive than asphalt, architectural standing seam
> (no screws penetrating the face, lasts a lifetime) was two or two and a
> half times as expensive as asphalt. A pro can put the metal onto any
> shape roof. I went with the standing seam, so I won't be up there when
> I'm past 70 trying to patch up a 20 year old leaking roof.
>
>
>> Also, i'm in minnesota, not arizona, so another option could be to
> insulate (foam sheeting) on top of the existing roof and put the
> purlins and steel on top of that. My attic is finished, so I can't
> insulate it any better without demo-ing the ceiling.
>
>
> Minnesota, eh? Yes adding foam sheathing on top of your roof, after
> you
> tear off the shingles, and after you replace any rotten plywood that is
> under there, is an option, but it is unconventional and you'll be told
> by a contractor "It can't be done". Keep looking until you find
> someone
> creative. Unless you add purlins you won't be able to do more than
> 1.5"
> of foam in this way, the screws get too long to be practical. I'd
> think
> the purlins would be stronger and more wind resistant.
>
> Make sure you include snow guards like these
>
> http://www.alpinesnowguards.com/standing-seam-snowguards.html
>
> it is really scary when a big chunk of ice comes skiing off the roof.
> You'll need snow guards wherever people can walk, to protect mechanical
> equipment, overhead wires and landscaping. Don't use the glue-on type
> that can pop off, use the kind that clamps a tube like a little fence.
>
>
> --Lawrence Lile
>
> _______________________________________________
> Greenbuilding email list
> List info:
> http://listserv.repp.org/mailman/listinfo/
> greenbuilding_listserv.repp.org
> List email: Greenbuilding at listserv.repp.org
> Managed by BuildingGreen, Inc. http://www.buildinggreen.com
> publisher of Environmental Building News and GreenSpec(r)
> Hosted and archived by REPP / CREST http://www.crest.org
>
More information about the Greenbuilding
mailing list