[Greenbuilding] Mould Advice
Stephen Collette
stephen at yourhealthyhouse.ca
Thu Feb 15 21:03:08 CST 2007
Hello Irina and everyone,
I'm an Environmental Building Consultant and a Healthy Home Inspector
(residential air quality) so I will wade into this one.
First all mould is toxic to some degree to some people. Some people
will die from a glass of wine or some cheese, others can play with
the stuff. It's all bad. Stachybotrys mould identifies that there has
been long term wetting in the building material. Sampling helps get a
better picture from what is going on with the problem by
understanding what the various types of moulds are present as they
each have specific needs and requirements for survival. Levels taken
in the air sample (if taken vs a tape lift) will determine how much
of a direct exposure is impacting your family's health.
Having the roof fixed is priority one, stopping the source. That is
taken care of and that is great.
Dead mould is toxic. Period. We are allergic to the mycotoxins in
mould. That is their little defence mechanisms that they fight each
other for a prime piece of soggy drywall. They actually duke it out
and fight each other. Stachybotrys is a heavy hitter as it needs long
term wetting and so it needs big water and big food to survive, so it
fights hard, as the others like Aspergillus or Pennicillium need a
little bit of water, so they appear first.
The idea of using bleach is really old school. We all used to do it
in the old days, but air sampling techniques and a better
understanding of the mycological interactions have led us to drop
that. Bleach is a biological killer. It will kill mould. It will kill
people (we dropped in on the Germans in WW1 and called it mustard
gas, now it comes in a 4L bottle with a handle) It's toxic. Don't use
it at home, don't use it on mould. Mould, from research, has shown
that it goes into the fight or flight mode when exposed to a threat.
So it may do one of two things, possibly spore off, or release more
mycotoxins at you. Well done, you've given yourself a toxic headache
from the bleach exposure and now released more mould toxins into the
air. Bravo.
So what do professionals do now? Well they define a scope and scale.
Is this damage big enough to require an isolation and
depressurization to prevent the mould from sporing off during the
deconstruction? If so, that is probably more than you can handle.
If it's not that bad, then still depressurize the space and try to
contain the space, and wear all your personal protective gear.
Rob Tom made great reference to Canada mortgage and housing corp's
info on homeowner how to's. I agree
Soap and water is really all you need. Soap breaks the surface
tension and the water encapsulates the mould. Unscented dishsoap or
TSP (trisodium phosphate) work great. Essential oil of thyme is a
good additive as well. It's the main ingredient in Benefact.
Concrobium (sold at home despots here in Canada) main ingredient is
TSP. You could easily make your own using both. (Thyme is slightly
better than tee tree oil in my experience, but if you have a
preference, yes tee tree oil works fine) I've used thyme for my MCS
(multiple chemical sensitive) clients who couldn't use anything else.
We also used her natural soap on her walls as she couldn't use TSP.
Sanding is almost correct procedure, it's usually a HEPA vac and a
wire brush. This pulls the existing mould out of the remaining
structural members.
Fungicides or biocides can be pretty toxic options. If under
containment and depressurization, they will off gas. I agree, they
may take a while or may leach chemicals indefinitely, but that is
industry standard with insurance jobs I've seen. They put these on to
cover up any remaining moulds to help ensure nothing will grow again
in that area. So if that is a concern, then you should cover it with
something it doesn't like as well.
I would be happy to discuss this further with you, but it would be
better off the listserve as that is beyond this group's focus.
Mould however is albeit minor, an issue with green building. We all
work hard in our respective fields to make homes better, and
healthier for the planet and our family. We try to use our building
science, our knowledge pool (like this listserve) and any other
resources we can find. Keeping mould out of green homes is important
as poor air quality rarely rates high in green building. Ditto for
rotten construction. Understanding water and it's movement in
building structures is stunningly simple yet amazingly complex. (My
solution is to keep houses inside so they don't get rained on, but
I've yet to find someone willing to go through with that!)
Protecting the building envelope is something green builder's pride
themselves in (that and cool new gadgets or ideas) and it's really
where I marry the two parts of my business. I hope this has been
helpful.
Stephen
Stephen Collette B.B.E.C
Principal
Your Healthy House
Indoor Environmental Inspections & Building Consulting
www.yourhealthyhouse.ca
stephen at yourhealthyhouse.ca
705.652.5159
>
> Hello green builders,
>
> We discovered significant amount of stachybotrys mold species
> (along with a
> few other less scarry types of mold) in the wall and the floor. The
> source
> of moisture (roof) had been fixed a three months ago. I am told
> that the
> only way to ensure that the mold colony is completely eradicated is to
> remove the wall board, the floor and the sub floor, sand down the
> rafters,
> and treat the area with a fungicide or biocide. I am concerned with
> the
> long term off-gassing issues of a fungicide or biocide and would
> appreciate
> any suggestions for an alternate treatment or thoughts on the off-
> gassing
> issue.
>
> Thank you very much for the help,
> -------------------------------------------------
> Irina Golfman Rosenblum
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