[Greenbuilding] Heating & Cooling in Minnesota

[Corwyn]

On Jan 25, 2007, at 11:55, Ben Pratt wrote:
> question 1:
> 10 year old chimney vent cast iron boiler (84% efficency, i think).
> Cast iron radiators on main floor. fin-tube cooper in the basement
> and attic. Takes 3 hours to heat up the house if you turn it down at
> night or when you are away during the day, so we don't turn it down.
> Would it be better, more efficient, to change out out the cast iron
> for fin tube (i could use the extra space and it may heat up
> quicker).

Talk to a heating contractor, they should be able to improve your heat 
output.  This will only marginally affect your heating _efficiency_.

> Or should i just change out everything and put in forced
> air?

Forced air will cost a lot of money to retrofit, and will probably 
_not_ increase your heat output (without a much larger furnace).  It 
would probably negatively affect your heating efficiency.

>     I've noticed people selling decent new boilers and furnaces on
> craigs list because they added on for a new addition or whatever.
> Would like one that vents out the side, as the chimney is bad. and
> would like to move the unit to a better location in the basement.
> suggestions?

Sure, if you can find a cheap high-efficiency furnace, go for it.

> Just curious, but does "low e" glass (the kid that reflects heat
> back). make sense in minnesota? It sees that one would want the heat
> gain in the winter, and the summers are not that hot.

Low-e glass does not really 'reflect heat'.  Technically, what it does 
is lower the rate at which the side of the glass with the coating 
radiates heat (for a given temperature).  You can certainly benefit 
from a low-e coating in Minnesota, as it will reduce the radiant heat 
loss through the window in the winter.  You want to be sure to get the 
low-e version which is designed for cold climates (hard coat) as it 
lets more solar heat _in_.

Thank You Kindly,

Corwyn


-- 
Corwyn
Kermit didn't know the half of it...
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corwyn at greenfret.com