[Greenbuilding] Insulation, windows, siding...oh my! (Take 2)

[Justin Close]

Thanks for the reply, Ben.

Yes, we have over hangs.  I think that we would still insulate the attic 
fully (no room to overblow at the edges, as you mention further on, so 
remove and replace is probably how it would go). 

We just had one of the folks we asked for estimates have a look at 
things, and he was saying that they use a blown fiberglass for both 
walls and attic.  He said that it was 60% recycled glass.  He was 
poo-pooing cellulose as being full of chemicals, settling, wet-blown 
stuff would shrink after it dried, etc.  (We are thinking of opening the 
stud bays and so I was asking about a blown in product while the bays 
were open, instead of a drop in filler.)  Does anyone have any comments 
on that style (blown in) fiber glass?  He was also talking about only 
shooting for a 10% air infiltration rate (blower test before and after, 
but their final target flow is square footage * .10). 

We have the EnergyTrust of Oregon coming to do an energy audit, but I 
don't think that they are going to go as far doing infrared scans.  A 
shame, I suppose, but it is free.

I have thought that a metal roof would be a good idea as well, but it is 
the cost that is probably going to nix that.  We don't plan on being 
here for a long time, but who knows how things will end up.  :)

I love the idea of a solar water heater, and would like to go that 
route, but that initial cost is a big barrier, especially in the face of 
doing all this other stuff.

Thanks again,
Justin

Benjamin Pratt wrote:
> Justin:
> A caveat--I am just a homeowner too who joined this list around two
> years ago and got hooked on green architecture. But I am also a design
> professor (although not an architect) so I've been able to learn
> fairly quickly. There are certainly much more knowledgeable people on
> this list, but I will give your answers to some of your questions.
>
> 1. I looked into putting foam under my new roof---fairly worthless
> because the thermal envelop will most likely be broken where the roof
> meets the wall--especially if you have overhangs.
>
> 2. I ended-up getting an energy audit--including an infrared scan, of
> my house. well worth it--especially since it was subsidized by the
> energy company (it was ($100US for the works) and is tax deductible
>
> 3. Cellulose is by far the best and most cost effective solution in
> your situation. you can have the old stuff sucked out or removed, but
> if you have the space, the cellulose can be blown on top of the old
> stuff with no loss of it's effectiveness. I think you'd be surprised
> how cheap it is (much cheaper than the foam you'd put on your roof)
>
> 4. windows and doors have the lowest rate of return compared to other
> measures. The main problem with older windows issue is leakage, not
> r-value. Caulk is cheap. However, if you want new windows and doors,
> I'd look on cragslist. it may be worth it to buy ones with slightly
> different sizes, depending on your exterior siding and trim. I put in
> a craigslist window--slightly narrower than the opening, and filled,
> the gap with insulation and covered it with wider trim.
>
> 5. If you are going to be in the house a long tim--consider a steel
> roof. it wil pay itself back since it lasts 3 times logner than
> asphalt. It is also, by far, the greener choice. On a house like
> yours, it may not be twice as expensive, and you culd use the simplest
> style roof.
>
> 6. Also, this would be a great time to consider a solar water heater
>
> 7. If you want to talk, i could call you on my commute, but i have no
> more time to write.....
>
> Ben
>
>