[Stoves] Wick Burners: Martin's Tea Time Candle Stove

[frank at compostlab.com]

Martin, Frans, and others

My purpose is to heat up ~200 mls water as fast as possible to boiling and
keep it boiling. Fresh water from a constant head replaces the boiled off
water into the bottom of the 200 cc chamber. 

I think the most efficient way of doing this is to have the tube with the
burning end sticking into the 200 mls water. This could be a shell light bulb
(remember that, you worded "brilliant", idea I had awhile back :) ) so we
could see the fire and what it is doing therefore making adjustments in air
flow as needed. The 200 cc water chamber around the shell could also be made
of glass and the 100 deg water would keep the shell from breaking. With this
heat going directly into the 200 mls water and the steam going directly into
the soup seems a very efficient way of cooking. But I wonder if the water
jacket around the fire box will make it too cool for proper burning?

And, if i understand you, we have the choice of having the fire in the pipe or
outside the hole(s)? Never thought it could be outside the holes but just
planned it inside the endcap of the pipe. Something new for me to think about.
 Not being able to see what is going on inside the pipe will make the
adjustments hard to do, the same for all stove designers.  



Best regards

Frank    







On Sun, 8 Oct 2006 23:27:04  0200, Boll, Martin Dr. wrote
> Frank,
> Blow is nearly always a good solution for burning.
> I don’t doubt that the tube that you describes works.
> 
> >Do you think the pipe
> > should be something other than steel so the heat is not removed so fast?
> 
> I think, there will be a difference in desired heat at the beginning,
> possibly too low for good burning, but it can turn to very hot,
>  because the burning chamber is very small and tight to the burning fuel.
> Possibly the end of the metal-tube, where the burning occurs can be replaced
> by some ceramic, if it does not work with only the metal-tube.
> Simplest will be a test-run with the metal-tube, and the possibility 
> to have variation of the blow. From burning characteristic you will 
> conclude how to change.
> 
> > the
> > one hold where the heat comes out could be changed to many small holes
> > that
> > circle around the bottom of the tea kettle?
> I think the holes in the round are all right. But think of the size 
> of the holes. They must have the size, that the flame is not 
> extinguished. By too small dimension the flame cannot come out of 
> the tube, when the tube is too cool or possibly the jet-speed is too 
> high. In that case, the smoke must be (re-)lighted outside of the tube.
> And when the smoke-speed is too fast, (which occurs by wood-gas very 
> often) you possibly have to place a baffle(?) (German: "Prallplatte")
> , to have all the different smoke-speeds close by each other to keep 
> the fire burning after being lighted.
> 
> > Will that work?
> Frank, my thoughts have often been different from reality. 
> And I have seen changes for better which were worse. But that 
> happens to all stove-experiments. I have been told by other stovers 
> in the same sense. My idea for simple experiments: Make three same 
> stoves/experiments, with one little/small difference. Run them at 
> the same time. One of the three will be the best to continue with 
> small steps.
> 
> Two years ago, I had a metal-drum, 53cm high 27cm diameter. I filled 
> it with old paper, containing as well crashed cardboard; lighted on 
> top. By burning down I made an inclination of the drum down to 45° 
> from vertical, to get a stream upwards on the upper side with 
> burning gasses and on the opposite side downwards for fresh air. It 
> was not as satisfying as I thought. To get a better burn, I 
> introduced a 3/4" tube, about 1 m long with 90°bow on top into the smoky
> burning drum. The tube was connected with an old vacuum-cleaner in 
> the blow-mode. It made a good and hot burn. That was before I saw 
> the Deom-turbo-stove in the web, which is a likely burning type. Tom 
> had put the picture a lot of time ago, to show (with English part-
> description) but I cannot find it now, therefore I looked for the 
> website. Here it is: http://rocles03.free.fr/deom/pag_chaudiere.htm
> 
> After you have seen this site:
> How about blowing not from downside up through the cardboard but 
> from upside down against the upper end of the cardboard being in 
> glow, and re-lighting the smoke outside the tube if needed, as 
> described above? Another idea: You will not need a big amount of air,
>  to get only the cardboard gasified. But if you want to burn as well 
> the produced charcoal, the blow must be bigger and the circular 
> holes must be bigger, that the flames can go out of the metal-tube.
> 
> Good luck with burning!
> 
> Martin
> 
> > -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
> > Von: frank at compostlab.com [mailto:frank at compostlab.com]
> > Gesendet: Sonntag, 8. Oktober 2006 05:39
> > An: Boll, Martin Dr.; Stoves-List
> > Cc: 'Frans Peeters'; crispin at newdawn.sz
> > Betreff: Re: Re: [Stoves] Wick Burners: Martin's Tea Time Candle Stove
> > 
> > Martin,
> > 
> > The main reason I think the cardboard could be a great fuel is because it
> > has
> > all those tubes running the length. To preheat? Perhaps the following:
> > 
> > A five cm diameter pipe about a meter long. Drill a small hole about three
> > cm
> > from the right end and insert a nail through the pipe. Screw on an endcap.
> > About three cm left of the nail drill a hole in the top of the pipe about
> > two
> > cm in diameter. Slide in rolled cardboard fuel sticks from the left until
> > it
> > hits the nail. Slide in a spring and cap the left side of the pipe. Drill
> > a
> > hole in the left cap and have air under pressure enter the pipe, go
> > through
> > the air chambers of the fuel stick to the end of the pipe, them back
> > around
> > the outside edge of the fuel stick and out the top hole. Remove the right
> > cap,
> > stick in a fire starter and light. Screw on the cap and start the air.
> > Place
> > our tea kettle over the hole where the heat is coming out, and having the
> > steam directed into our soup in the haybox, it should only be a short time
> > before Frans, you and I are enjoying our rewards.
> > 
> > We could have a sealed drop pipe to catch the ash. Do you think the pipe
> > should be something other than steel so the heat is not removed so fast?
> > Or,
> > if that is not important, perhaps the very hot pipe could be placed
> > directly
> > into the water to get it to steam that much faster in a verticle setup and
> > the
> > one hold where the heat comes out could be changed to many small holes
> > that
> > circle around the bottom of the tea kettle?
> > 
> > So the air goes to the end of the pipe where the fire is, then the hot
> > gasses
> > go back around the fuel stick a few cm to preheat as the stick moves
> > forward,
> > and out the hole(s) to heat the pot.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Will that work?
> > 
> > Frank


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