[Strawbale] Sub Floor Radiant Heating

[Ilan Ungar]

So I understand the consensus around here is that in this climate one should
investigate good design and a little backup heating.

And yes, I did inter-change heatsink and thermal storage? Sorry.

Thanks everybody. Ilan.





On Nov 27, 2007 10:09 PM, Shody Ryon <qi4u at yahoo.com> wrote:

>
> --- Ilan Ungar <adrihalut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > So heating earth is complicated. In that case, I
> > don't think I should have a
> > problem insulating the bottom of the slab since we
> > use pile (or is it
> > Caisson?) foundations and the slab does not transfer
> > loads to the soil.
>
> I don't think it is complex, per say, the thermal
> storage just should be isolated from the living space,
> for seasonal long term thermal storage of renewable
> heat, as I understand it.
>
> > I was asking about slab thickness because I imagine
> > I would want the heat to
> > be smooth with little low and high peaks. This means
> > larger heat storage,
> > correct?
>
> This would be storage inside the living space.
>
> With a typical 20 cm slab and 10 cm
> > flooring and filling (???), one
> > would remain with a cold floor after a single cloudy
> > day. So, what would the
> > parameters for arriving at a correct
> > floor-thickness/heatsink-volume be?
>
> I am not trying to follow this as I think there are
> too many variables
>
> > A larger heatsink will require more heat which I
>
> Are you inter-changing heatsink and thermal storage?
>
> > The article also mentions the high cost of this
> > system, around $14,000.
> > Solar panels and tanks are not that expensive here,
> > is it the PEX that makes
> > this system so expensive?
>
> $5000 for varible speed on demand water heater. This
> might be desireable for someone with a regular
> schedule away from the house most of the time; no one
> in the house for long regular periods, perhaps with a
> low thermal mass floor, so the timer could shut the
> system down and turn it back on and save energy.
>
> I think PEX is 50 cents a foot.
>
> The price may include labor.
>
> >
> > Thanks Derek. Wouldn't that require lots of tripple
> > glazing at the South
> > with heatsinks absorbing sunlight etc?
>
> The thermal collector should not have low E or tripple
> glazing or anything that would reduce energy charging
> the collector
>
> > In that case,
> > wouldn't that require
> > backup heating after a single cloudy day?
>
> in most cases-yes, because they are not designed
> correctly.
>
> If good designer with energy efficiency in mind could
> design a house to be 100% solar heated even in very
> extreme Alaska with -60F. This design would have,
> among other things, small windows, accept for southern
> (sun facing, that is) sun space windows outside the
> insulation envelope. I doubt you would need an extreme
> design in this regard where you are.
>
> > In the climate we have here, I am imagining an
> > insulated floor slab, with
> > solar heating. Seems to me I can even have the house
> > ventilated in winter
> > with open windows during the daytime. Once the
> > windows are shut, within an
> > hour or so, I'd get a nice cozy temperature
> > throughout the house…?
>
> I think so. some people really like the temps like
> this, others not so much so make sure everyone will be happy.
>
>
>
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-- 
Ilan Ungar, Architect.
Lehavot Habashan 12125
Israel
972 4 6953429
972 52 2431398