[Strawbale] what's wrong with chicken wire? ( Structalath )

[Alan Mason]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Green" <pojeros at telus.net>
To: <Strawbale at listserv.repp.org>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Strawbale] what's wrong with chicken wire? ( Structalath )


> Alan Mason wrote:
> > Hate to sound like a shill here, but I was recently turned on to a product
> > called Structalath,<snip>
> >  I don't know what its status is for building
> > departments generally, but inspectors in San Diego County have no problem
> > with it. A stucco contractor I know in SD won't use anyting else anymore.
> >   

> Thanks for the lead on this, Alan..
> Judging by the "Approvals" pdfs, this is permitted for use in all of 
> California, since the Cal. Building Code now allows for self-furring 
> stucco lath.
> They do point out you shouldn't pull on the wire so hard the assembly no 
> longer has the 1/4" stand-off that is needed for stucco.
> The pdf also advises against nailing or stapling these so hard that you 
> break the moisture barrier paper--however, that doesn't apply to most of 
> SB construction.

True, especially as it would be hard to get closer than 1/4" to a bale, and moisture barrier paper would NOT be advised over strawbales.

> 
> This material looks a lot easier to work with than chicken wire. I can 
> see where stucco contractors would switch to this line.
> If I'm correct in assuming the larger wires mean there is more fusion of 
> the metal during the automated welding process, then it it fairly safe 
> to assume the whole assembly will be quite a bit stronger than chicken 
> wire. Bonus!

Yes, it is definitely stronger

> > I generally pay about $47 for a 38" x 150' foot long roll, a little more
> > expensive than standard chicken wire stucco mesh, but far cheaper than 2x
> > welded wire mesh last I checked. 
> Since the CAN $ is rising in value in relation to the US one, your price 
> will have risen for this in the past few 3-4 months.
> > It works really well when tying bales
> > together and otherwise. The company has or is developing numerous other
> > products that the strawbaler will find useful.

That was the price I paid about 2 months ago.

> >   
> Methods of Work questions:
> When you put this lath on, do you start from the top row and work down 
> the wall or go the other way?
> How many hands are needed to place this?


I was taught to start at the top and work down, so that the laps go up. We generally use a Tirolessa to spray the stucco/clay on, and then trowel upwards to level it, so if the laps go up there is less chance of catching the trowel on the transition. However, if the lathe is properly tightened, pinned and hog ringed this does not happen very often if you do it the other way.

As with any lathing, the more bodies the merrier, up to a point. I would recommend a minimum of two. Staple one end, then have one person pull the other end tight while the 2nd person staples that end off.

Another trick we have learned from doing fencing is that if the lath isn't as tight as you would like, you can use a pair of pliers to bend the wires in a vertical row of cells into a Z shape. That is, twist each wire in a clockwise pattern in plane with the wall to tighten the lath. We have found that the structalath does break easier than welded wire mesh when doing this, so be careful.

Hope that helps.

@